The fine quality western saddle is made up of a tree that is composed of a pommel, which goes over a horse’s withers, and sidebars that bend around to the cantle. The tree framework in the best leather saddles will be composed of durable wood like beechwood cut along the grain. Thin canvas fabric gets glued to cover the wood to prevent wood splitting, then iron or steel plates get riveted to the cantle and head. Webs of linen are connected lengthwise and also perpendicular, and then are padded over. To the tree skeleton are fastened the stirrup-bars. The leather covering of the tree framework could be durable pig-skin or long-lasting synthetic material. The various exterior and visible parts of the all purpose saddle are the hanging flaps, skirt, and seat.

Find out about the sort of western saddle you would like to get

While you learn about the product by conversing with sales people in stores or by searching for evaluations on the web, think about if the evaluations are factual. Multiple evaluation sources will tend to protect you from the more biased reviews you could come up with in a single place. A good method to analyze whether you are finding unbiased information about bargain all purpose saddles, dressage saddles, or draft horse bridles is to evaluate a variety of places to assure yourself whether you have learned what is necessary before you buy the item you want.

When you acquire draft horse saddles, used dressage saddles, or draft horse bridles you want to know what type of barrel racing saddle, leather saddle, or saddle gullet you need to shop for. Your task might appear straight-forward, nevertheless this often is not so simple. As you search for discount trail saddles, equine saddles, or horse tack and supplies, you often have several selections to make as you decide the special gaited horse saddle, used dressage saddle, or English horse tack inventory merchandise that you think will meet your needs and objectives.

Specifically, when you intend to get a very expensive type of gaited horse saddle, treeless saddle, or pony tack for your objectives, you should determine if you desire all these costly capabilities. It would be beneficial to determine if you must have a certain type of trail saddle, all purpose saddle, or reins. In addition, you ought to determine what quality of horse saddle, leather saddle, or reins you need.

Determine how much you can pay for western trail saddles

With all products there are alternatives comparing price and quality. As an example, many endurance saddles, riding saddles, and saddle trees are made of better grade materials, but these kinds of higher grade draft horse saddle, dressage saddle, or equestrian tack merchandise items often are more expensive.

Furthermore, even whether you have enough money to purchase the priciest inventory product out there, you should determine if buying the most expensive product is necessarily of greater benefit to you. Many barrel racing saddles, equine saddles, and stirrups will provide lots of abilities that might seem appealing, however you need to determine whether those are abilities which you really want. If you buy a product for high cost capabilities that you do not use, then you are simply tossing valuable financial assets down the drain. A cheaper thing could have done adequately.

Also, find out prior to purchase the terms for returning the discounted cordura saddle, equine saddle, or western tack merchandise item and if you get any warranty. While you perhaps will not pay the cheapest cost, transacting with a trust worthy store providing a reasonable returns policy is many times very useful. Typically only some of all a minority of the merchandise items which you buy need to be returned, however evaluating a store’s policies before you pay can assist you after the purchase, if you have a problem.

Where should you acquire the best dressage riding saddle?

To start with as you search, you must have full access to a very broad selection of merchandise in the more narrow category of products which you are looking to get. Broad access is best, when the website you are using taps into the fullest array of competitive product offerings that are available. In addition, it is valuable to you to sort through the items that are on sale to locate only those which are just right for you. To get what you want easily, there should be an automated sorter that quickly delivers the right stuff.

Internet competition to receive your order assures that you buy things that cost less. Sellers understand that they have to give you access to quality service and products, as they have to offer you low prices or you are likely to just purchase from a competing vendor. If you need to acquire better used saddles, French saddles, and western bridles, search out the best shopping website. The top shopping site offer you the fastest, most visual browsing process for cordura saddle, used dressage saddle, or tack trunk products.

Horse training requires a firm basis on the ground before you can move onto saddle training; here are a few basic exercises outlined which can be used when training your own horse or someone else’s. It is important to get these exercises right first, as this is how you and the horse will become familiar with each other and build a trusting relationship. It is the groundwork that will pave the way for future training. It is important for your safety that your new ton-sized friend is taught to respect your personal space bubble.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These three P’s can be applied to all current and future levels of horse training.

1. Groom your horse. This is the perfect first exercise for you and your horse. You’ll get to know each other. Stand beside him and brush his neck and back. A horse will often turn to give you a little love bit at this time. Horses do this to each other, but may not do it to humans. You can discourage this easily enough by the wave of a hand or by pushing his head back to the straight position. Those teeth are HUGE so you must make it clear from the beginning that this is unacceptable. Use patience and keep calm. The horse will understand and cooperate before too long. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse. Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Take a step and walk slowly forward. He should remain at your right side and never try to go ahead of you. If he tries to go ahead just walk around him to your left in a circle. Do this as many times as necessary. Show persistence. Use the circular movement to stay just ahead of him, where you should be. Should your horse not want to walk with you then stand slightly behind him, at his shoulder, facing the same direction. While holding the rope close to his chin, push forward gently. Give praise and positive reinforcement when he takes a small step. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. Never wrap the lead rope around any part of yourself – this is for your own safety. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.This is a great exercise used by most horse trainers and owners. Many of the skills, commands and cues that your horse will require for saddle work can be taught by performing lunging exercises.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. The lungeing rope will be much longer than the lead rope at about thirty feet long. Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Face your horse’s left side to begin, whilst holding the lunge rope. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along. Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Let the line out and follow the horse just behind and to the left side and make a kissing sound. Soon that sound will come to mean “move forward” to your horse. As you’re turning and the horse moves in a circle around you, hold the whip slightly behind his hindquarters. The whip is not for hitting. You only need to wave it just a little to get his attention.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

The “whoa” command can be taught at this stage. In a low, calm voice, say the word “whoooaa”. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. Be sure to give him a neck rub with lots of praise when he stops. Your horse needs this positive reinforcement if he is to remember what he needs to do.

You can now change position so that you are lunging your horse anti-clockwise. This is done simply by swapping the lead over to be clipped onto the right of the halter, and holding the lunge whip in your left hand.

These exercises are simple ways to get you started when traiing your horse. Bear in mind that a horse is a huge and powerful creature. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

Saddle training is the ultimate goal for riding, but the groundwork must be laid first. You will first need to lead your horse from the trailer, for example, to the tack area in order to tack-up and then ride. Not much point in teaching your horse point B, the saddle riding part, if there’s no way to get there from point A is there?. When your horse learns to cooperate with you, you can act as a team. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

The primary objective in teaching a horse acceptable behaviour is safety for both of you. He will need to be taught that his natural tendency to pull against the lead rope, for example, is not allowed. Your horse should also know that he must not invade the personal space of the human leader on the other end of the rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

Leading your horse requires that you use the three Ps of horse training: patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

Beginning lead training when the horse is still a foal is the easiest plan. Although you won’t need to cover saddles and riding with a very young horse, it’s important to get an early start when teaching basic ground manners. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you’re lucky enough to have the dam on site, the foal will copy the behaviours of the dam. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. A young horse will naturally learn from his elders. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They learn by watching the others. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Horses notice everything that goes on around them – particularly if it involves other horses within the herd – so you can be sure that your student will be paying attention.

Begin by leading a more experienced horse or dam along with your young student horse, walking side by side with you in the middle leading both at once. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. Using a longer lead rope and simply tow the young trainee behind the more experienced horse. Since it’s natural for the young to follow the elders behaviours, this is actually a quite natural method for teaching the lead.

If you don’t have the luxury of having other horses close by from which your student can learn, you will need to rely heavily on your skills of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. You will get there in the end but it will probably take a bit longer for the horse to understand what is required.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

After you have him walking with you in straight lines with success, try turning slightly to the left, maintaining the space bubble between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Reward him each time he takes a step in the right direction by releasing the pressure on the lead rope.

Lead training can be a testing time. Stay with it and you will see great improvement. To get yourself closer to the day you can saddle up for a ride, you’ll need to put in the work; little and often (every day if possible) works best and will soon give you great results.

Below is a brief description of just three simple groundwork exercises you can perform with your own horse or a horse you are training. Ground exercises are a vital part of getting to know each other and of building trust between you and the horse. Good groundwork sets the stage for all future training. The importance of safety and maintaining your personal space bubble should not be taken lightly.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These are the 3 P’s of basic horse training that will serve you well no matter what level you are training or what you might be training for in the future.

1. Groom your horse.

This is a perfect place to start before practising more advanced exercises with your horse. Your horse will get to know you during this quality time together, and vice verse. Standing beside your horse, brush his back and neck. It is not unusual for the horse to bring his teeth around to you for a little love bite. While horses do this to each other all the time, naturally they cannot do it to humans. Discourage this by simply waving a hand, or by pushing his head back straight. Those massive teeth could really hurt – so be sure to make it clear from the very start that this is not acceptable. Use patience and keep calm. He’ll get the idea and will cooperate. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse.

Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Step forward and walk slowly. He should not try to go ahead of you but should remain at your right side. He may try to do this and you should walk around in a circle to your left. Do this as many times as necessary. Be persistent. By circling to your left you will stay just ahead of him as it should be. If, on the other hand, your horse doesn’t want to walk with you, stand slightly behind at his shoulder facing the same direction. Hold the rope close to his chin and push forward. When he takes a little step, praise and positive reinforcement is in order. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. For your safety, never wrap the lead rope around any part of you. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.

This is a fantastic exercise which the vast majority of horse owners and certainly all horse trainers will use to teach their horse about what is expected. Lunging will teach many of the skills and commands, or cues, your horse will need to know when you’re ready to work him under saddle.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. This will be 30 ft long (approximately 10m), much longer than the short lead rope you use for the lead exercise.

Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Start by facing the horse’s left side while holding the lunge line. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along.

Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Now let out the rope as you follow behind the horse to the left side, making a kissing sound as you do so. He’ll begin to associate that sound with “move forward”. Just hold the whip slightly behind the horse’s hindquarters as you are turning and the horse is moving in a circle around you. The whip is not for hitting. Simply by waving it about a little the horse should pay attention to you.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

This is the perfect time to teach your horse to understand “whoa”. Say the word “whoooaaa” in a low and calm voice. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. When he stops, give him lots of praise and a little neck rub. You will help him remember what to do through this positive reinforcement.

Changing your position now will allow you to lunge your horse in an anti-clockwise manner. It’s done in the same way, but with the lead clipped to the right side of the halter and the lunge whip in the left hand.

These are just a few basic exercises for you to get started with hands-on horse training. Always remember the size and sheer power of the horse. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

When wanting to train a horse you first need to catch it. Although this may sound simple, it can be surprisingly frustrating when you attempt this for the first time. This is the most important step in horse training. The foundations of trust are laid in this step. It is important to remember the three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – at every stage during the process of training your horse. These three elements work together to help you with each step of horse training.

The most efficient way to begin the approach is to have the horse in an enclosure of easily manageable size. A round pen is the best type of enclosure to use, but you can use any large fenced area or paddock if you don’t have one.

You should start by casually approaching the enclosure. Do your very best to relax and give the impression of calm. Leave your life’s stress outside the pen. Since horses are prey animals, they are easily intimidated by anyone or anything that emits stress or aggression of any kind. You wouldn’t want your horse to see you as a possible threat, which is how he will interpret those emotions. Trust needs to be built between you and the horse.

Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. This will happen in good time. For the time being the priority is familiarisation – you with the horse and more importantly, the horse with you. Walk inside and just stand around for a couple of minutes. Don’t look at the horse directly. Predators eyeball their prey and stare into their eyes to intimidate them. Your horse must not see you as a predator. The horse needs to see you as part of the herd.

Take in a rake or a shovel next time and tidy up a bit. Do some basic maintenance checks on the fence panels. The horse should not be approached yet. Wait for the horse to approach and investigate your actions. A horse is a naturally curious creature. When the horse realises it’s you again, he will come to check you out with a good sniff.

If the horse is unfamiliar with human contact this step can take some time. For some horses shyness is not a problem, and they will approach you the minute you enter the enclosure. Both ways are acceptable. However long it takes for the horse to become accustomed to you, it is important for trust that you let him get there in his own time. Patience!

Don’t see this as an opportunity to grab the horse. The most important thing to remember here is patience. To build this foundation for training and for a lasting relationship takes time. It is important not to rush this step.

When the horse at last approaches you, turn your back and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. You will show the horse that you are the one in charge by walking away first.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each others presence. Remember to use a slow, relaxed manner to walk towards the horse. A skittish equine can be approached more easily from the side. Without staring at the horse, move towards the side. Move closer to your new friend whilst glancing sideways. Do not ever attempt to fit the halter by sneaking up on your horse. How will you hold onto the horse when “caught” if the horse is frightened? Trust will be broken in this manner and you will be back to square one. And of course you could be hurt. The emphasis here is on patience and persistence.

On being allowed to get close to the horse, ensure that you use plenty of positive reinforcement. The first moments you spend together should have nothing to do with work. This step is about bonding. Stroking your horse along his neck area, grooming your horse, and talking to him softly are all methods of positive reinforcement. The horse should see this as enjoyable interaction. Now is the time you are both ready for training.

A word on safety:
Never approach a horse from behind unless you are very familiar and the horse knows you. A swift kick can be registered before you can even think about moving out of a horse’s way. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Always approach where you can be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurancein place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses, while very beautiful animals, are strong and powerful with the capability of delivering an incredibly debilitating kick. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like us, they also need to feel a bit special, and the little extra love will go a long way.

Horses are herd animals and will enjoy the company of other equines. They also see their owner as part of their herd, usually as herd leader. A horse’s chewing or licking are both signs of affection and of submission to your status as leader. Spending time with your horse will cement the bond of mutual trust. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

Horses are naturally clean animals and it is important that they have clean stables which are warm with deep bedding provided. Providing deep bedding will help to protect your horse’s joints and legs as well as giving them a comfy and secure place to lie down.

Mealtimes are important to a horse. Be sure to feed little and often, as they will also be grazing throughout the day outside. It’s best to incorporate all appropriate foods, to keep a healthy balance. It’s essential to supply your horse with plenty of fibre, so ensure there is lots of fresh hay or grass. Another great source of fibre is grain, although too much of this could cause stomach upsets. You need to make sure there is fresh water available. Water prevents the food becoming solid by allowing it to ferment in the horse’s stomach. Routine is something a horse responds well to, so time your feeding regularity accordingly. Your horse should be fed at the same time each day.

Grooming your horse daily will show the horse that they are loved – they will enjoy extra attention from you which grooming brings. Make sure you do lots of rubbing, scratching and brushing. This is such an enjoyable part of the day for both of you. Grooming will maintain their coat and keep it glossy, smooth and free from pests. You will also need to pick your horse’s hooves daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

Exercise is vital for a horse’s happiness. A horse needs daily exercise. Vary your exercise routines to include things like jumping and cross-country. On the other hand, also let your horse have play time. Turn them out so they can be free in their paddock. Your horse may want to play with the other horses, or simply hang out with them and relax. It’s as important to allow your horse to relax as it is to exercise him, or else his behaviour may become erratic.

The above tips are just a few pieces of advice which can help you look after the physical and psychological needs of your horse. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like humans, it is those little extras that they need to be truly at peace with their place in the world.

Horses, as herd animals, enjoy being in the company of other equines, so keep them in a shared paddock if possible. Owner’s are often viewed as herd leader. They will often show their affection by chewing or licking; here they are submitting to your leadership. Spending time with your horse will cement the bond of mutual trust. When this is achieved, it will have a positive effect on all areas in the horse’s handling and riding.

Horses are naturally clean animals and it is important that they have clean stables which are warm with deep bedding provided. A deep bed will help to alleviate any stress on joints and legs, as well as giving them a place to lie down in safety and comfort.

Mealtimes are important to a horse. You must ensure that you feed them little and often, as they will also graze outside all day. All appropriate foods can be incorporated into your horse’s diet to provide a healthy balance. Your horse needs lots of fibre for his digestive system, so lots of fresh grass or hay is essential. Grain is also superb, but not too much as it can upset the stomach. Water must always be available and accessible. Water prevents the food becoming solid by allowing it to ferment in the horse’s stomach. The food regularity is also important, as they are best when in routines. Always feed them at the same time every day.

Horses enjoy the attention they get whilst being groomed – it makes them feel secure and loved. Give them lots of rubs, brushes and scratches. This is real quality time which you should both enjoy every day. Grooming your horse will not only keep his coat glossy and smooth, but can also help to keep pests and parasites at bay. Do not forget about your horse’s feet; hooves should be picked daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

A horse needs regular exercise to remain happy. You need to give your horse daily exercise. Vary your exercise routines to include things like jumping and cross-country. On the other hand, also let your horse have play time. Turn them out so they can be free in their paddock. Then they can socialise, play and have some time to themselves too. It’s as important to allow your horse to relax as it is to exercise him, or else his behaviour may become erratic.

Part of the physical and psychological well-being of your horse can be taken care of by following these few simple but important tips. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

At first, tacking up can seem daunting, but if you have a set routine, you’ll quickly get the hang of it and your horse will to. Having your horse secured with a set of crossties that fasten to the halter from opposite sides at about normal head height is really helpful as this leaves the rider with both hands to work with the tack.

Before putting on the tack it is important to quickly examine your horse and make sure there are no injuries or leg or foot problems. Slide your hand down each of the legs, pick up the hooves and be sure to pick out all the dirt, mud or debris using a hoof pick. Doing this will prevent the chance of riding with a rock in your horse’s foot and risking lameness. It also a good opportunity to check out your horse’s hoofs and whether his shoes are secure. Now that you’ve checked your horse’s legs and hooves, it’s time to give a good brushing to his back and body. Give your horse a good scrub with a stiff brush to get rid of all of the built up hair and dirt, especially around the saddle area where it can cause particular irritation.

Since the halter is securing the horse to the crossties, you may want to start with the saddle. Place the saddle pad or blanket straight down on the horses back, just on the highest point of the withers and slide it straight back a fraction of an inch to position it. This ensures that the hair is all flat, if you have to reposition the blanket lift it off the horse, smooth down the hair again with a brush or your hand, then start over.

With the saddle pad or blanket in place, pick up the saddle with your left hand on the horn or pommel and the left hand under the back skirt or the cantle, depending on the saddle type. Make sure you’ve secured the stirrups before placing the saddle. Then place the saddle in the center of the pad just back of the withers. Horse’s have a natural depression in their back which is where the saddle should be placed. If you have a western style saddle, reach under the horse’s belly and grasp the cinch, make sure it is straight and tighten the saddle from the left side. With an English saddle you may need to walk around to the right side and affix the cinch, then move back around to the left to tighten it.

Most find bridling a horse the most challenging as many horses have learned to evade and throw their heads to avoid the bit. This can be corrected by slow and gentle movements, so always move with a purpose and don’t become excited or angry with the horse. Unbuckle the throatlatch and noseband if there is one, then standing in the same direction as the horse on the left side, hold the bit in your left hand and the top of the bridle in your right. Bring the browband of the bridle above your horse’s head with your right hand, thereby positioning the bit below the lips. Gentleness counts when inserting the bit. Lift the crown of the bridle over the ears and gently insert the bit. Position both the bit and the headstall in the right place, then latch the throatlatch and noseband. Avoid at all cost hitting your horse’s teeth with the bit. It’s painful and will cause him to be reluctant to be bridled in the future.

Mounting the horse is the opposite of dismounting and should be done in one fluid movement. With the reins in your left hand, grasp your horse’s mane in your right hand. Using the right hand to hold the stirrup, place your left foot in the stirrup, swing your body up and your right leg up and over the back of the horse, gentle sitting down into the saddle. Put the right foot in the right stirrup and you are all ready to go.