Wood chewing is a common horse problem which not only damages wood but can also injure your horse. The splinters can get stuck in the teeth or gums of the horse. If swallowed, they could puncture the stomach or intestines. Consequently, to protect your horse and your property, one should correct this habit as soon as possible.

One should first check that the problem is actually wood chewing and not the more serious issue of horse cribbing. The two are sometimes confused as both result in wood damage and both involve the horse biting wood. However, they are very different problems. Wood chewing is simply that the horse chews on wood. Cribbing doesn’t involve chewing the wood but rather the horse firmly griping the wood with its teeth, then arching its neck and swallowing air. If you happen to see a horse performing either of these activities it should be apparent which is the problem, since they are very different. Looking at the damaged wood will also likely determine which problem the horse has as in one case it will be nibbled away whereas in the other it has been firmly gripped and pulled.

The most common cause of wood chewing is boredom. Horses which are left in their boxes most of the day with nothing to do simply do not have enough mental stimulation, so they start chewing on wood to occupy themselves. Another cause is stress or nervousness; just as some people chew their fingernails or pencils when they are stressed, a nervous horse confined to its box with nowhere to direct its nervous energy may start chewing on wood to distract itself. The third possible cause of wood chewing in nutritional deficiencies; if the horse’s food does not contain all the minerals they need they will start to chew on other items (such as wood or earth) in an attempt to obtain the missing minerals.

If one does not know which of these possible causes is the issue, one can simply address all three. Try to provide as much pasture time, exercise and other mental stimulation as possible so that the horse is not bored. Watch the horse to see possible sources of stress (such as bullying by another horse) and fix the problem. Put a mineral stone and salt lick in its box to address any mineral deficiencies in its normal diet.

With the above steps, one should quickly see a reduction in wood chewing activity. Unfortunately, once a horse has been chewing wood for some time, it becomes a habit and continues even after the original cause is removed. Consequently, in addition to fixing the habit, one also needs to take steps to break the habit.

One does this by making it impossible (or at least unpleasant) for the horse to chew on wood. One can place metal strips on top of wood (e.g. stall doors) so that they cannot be nibbled. An electric fence wire can be added to the tops of fencing rails to discourage chewing. Alternatively, one can paint wooden surfaces with paints which are made to taste horrible (ensure that the paint is approved by your veterinarian.

It is important to do both these steps: address the cause and discourage the activity. If one treats the cause (e.g. boredom) but not the behavior (e.g. with unpleasant tasting paint) the habit may diminish but is unlikely to stop. Alternatively, treating the behavior (with unpleasant paint) but not the cause may stop the horse from chewing wood but the horse may then develop a different behavioral problem in response to the continuing underlying problem.

When deciding on a new horse, a key factor is its health. Although one cannot be 100% certain that a horse is absolutely healthy, there are some basic checks.

The first indication is the general appearance. It should have a shinny, even and flat coat. The body should be well muscled, neither fat nor skinny. When standing, it should spread its weight evenly on all four legs, with each hoof pointing straight ahead. While normal to rest a leg from time to time, it should not be for long periods or always the same leg, as this would indicate an injury or weakness.

Slowly run your hands down the legs, from top to bottom, with careful attention to joints and the lower leg. There should be no bumps, swellings or hot spots. The hoof walls should be even, free of cracks and completely smooth.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

Check the gums. They should be pink, shiny and moist. If they are dry, tacky, pale or any color other than salmon pink, there is a health issue. If one presses gently on the gums (careful with your fingers!), at the point where you are pressing they will turn white but as soon as you remove your finger the color should completely return to pink within two seconds.

Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should look happy, alert and interested in what is happening. Its ears should stand up and should move alertly in response to sounds. It should be interested in what is happening around it, but not nervous.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

It should not sweat (except during hot weather) until it has been worked for some time at speed. Its respiration should gradually increase as the gait picks up but it should not breathe hard except at a fast gait. As the gait is reduced, its respiration should quickly reduce. Once the horse stops, its breathing and pulse should quickly return to resting normal. Neither during nor after exercise should the horse shown any sign of discomfort, pain or limping.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.

When looking at horses for sale it is important to select a suitable age. A horse which is too young can lack maturity and training, as well as being unnecessarily expensive. A horse which is too old will not provide you with the years of future riding that you would like. To help you choose a suitable age, the advantages and disadvantages are discussed below.

Four Year Old. This is one of the most popular ages, since horses typically complete their basic training by age four and are immediately ready for riding. In addition, if you decide you want to train the horse to an advanced level, it is still young enough. Although a trained horse will be more expensive than a younger untrained one, this is offset by saving on the costs of training and associated stabling during this period.

5 to 7 Years Old. A trained horse of this age has all the advantages of a 4-year old. However, it will be more emotionally mature and calmer, and may be trained to a higher level as well. All of these factors make it easier to manage and more reliable than a younger horse, so it is more suitable for new riders and for children. However, as a horse gets older it becomes more difficult and consequently more expensive to train so one should ensure that the horse is fully trained before the end of this period.

After 7 years. Horses become calmer and more reliable as they become older, so horses in this category are often the best choice for inexperienced riders. They also are generally less expensive than younger horses. Provided that the horse has been well treated and is not too old, it can have many years of riding left in it.

3-Year Old. A three year old horse (depending on breed) is ready to start its training and you can enjoy this experience. However, it is usually less expensive to buy a trained 4 year old that is ready to ride than to buy a 3 year old and pay for a year’s stabling and training.

Less than 3 years old. Watching a horse grow up can give immeasurable pleasure, something like watching young children mature. However, like young children, it can be difficult to predict how they will turn out physically and otherwise, so a foal is more of a gamble than a mature horse. Although foals are less expensive to buy than mature horses of the same quality, once one adds in the cost of stabling and training before it is ready to ride, they are usually more expensive in the end.

The above is a general guide only. Various breeds mature at different rates, as do individual horses. Owners also vary in terms of the timetable and extent of training they provide to their horses. If you intend to compete with the horse, you need to take into account various applicable age restrictions as well as the competitive requirements in terms of timing and intensity of training.