Transporting your horse should never be undertaken before you have made proper plans. Horses can become stressed during transportation, especially when the weather is very warm. The health and safety of your horse is of paramount importance.

There are some horses which won’t display their stress at being transported. Don’t forget, therefore, to look out for any odd behaviour or an increase in the horse’s heart rate. Horses are not stupid and do not forget much. Remember this when your horse doesn’t seem to want to enter the trailer.

Your horse will be fearful of horseboxes if you use bullying tactics in trying to make him enter. You must avoid introducing an inexperienced horse too suddenly to such travelling. Patience, encouragement, and consistency will be required.

Towing a horsebox is a special skill; not everyone can do it. A special test for towing a trailer or driving a horsebox is required if your driving licence was obtained after 1997. Professional training is recommended if you have no experience.

Do your practising with an empty box or trailer. Especially tricky is reversing a trailer so you should make sure you are confident in doing this before you decide to try it with a horse inside it.

You must ensure that the horsebox is well ventilated. Make sure that the maximum air flow is maintained. Be prepared for sudden stops and swerves. It’s important that both you and your horse should have ready access to first aid equipment. If an emergency arises, it’s sensible to have your vet’s number instantly available. It’s also a good idea to have your horse insurance documents in an easily accessible place in case your horse should need immediate veterinary treatment following an accident.

When travelling make sure that your horse isn’t short of drink. Such encouragement will reduce the risk of impaction colic as well, of course, of dehydration. Frequent stops for water will ensure that your horse remains healthy.

Try to avoid travelling when it’s very hot; horses don’t like it. Your horse needs lots of fresh air, so make sure this is provided. It is also important to muck out whenever possible and try not to travel in the heat of the day. In hot and humid weather your horse will need plenty of water to make up for its increased sweating. You want to keep the trailer as clean as possible, because ammonia build-up can cause respiratory problems for your horse. An unscheduled visit to an equine vet could cost you much more than you bargained for – especially if your horse insurance provider claims that you have been negligent and refuses to pay out.

Some horses will not drink water that tastes unfamiliar. A dash of Gatorade in a horse’s water should ensure that he drinks readily when travelling. Thus, when on the road you simply add a splash of Gatorade to their water. The water will be more appealing to the horse when you do this.

Don’t forget to ensure that all the details required by your equine insurance company have been kept up to date just in case the worst should happen and you were unlucky enough to have a collision. Your journey can be a pleasure if you make proper plans and take everything that your horse might need.

Horse training requires a firm basis on the ground before you can move onto saddle training; here are a few basic exercises outlined which can be used when training your own horse or someone else’s. It is important to get these exercises right first, as this is how you and the horse will become familiar with each other and build a trusting relationship. It is the groundwork that will pave the way for future training. It is important for your safety that your new ton-sized friend is taught to respect your personal space bubble.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These three P’s can be applied to all current and future levels of horse training.

1. Groom your horse. This is the perfect first exercise for you and your horse. You’ll get to know each other. Stand beside him and brush his neck and back. A horse will often turn to give you a little love bit at this time. Horses do this to each other, but may not do it to humans. You can discourage this easily enough by the wave of a hand or by pushing his head back to the straight position. Those teeth are HUGE so you must make it clear from the beginning that this is unacceptable. Use patience and keep calm. The horse will understand and cooperate before too long. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse. Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Take a step and walk slowly forward. He should remain at your right side and never try to go ahead of you. If he tries to go ahead just walk around him to your left in a circle. Do this as many times as necessary. Show persistence. Use the circular movement to stay just ahead of him, where you should be. Should your horse not want to walk with you then stand slightly behind him, at his shoulder, facing the same direction. While holding the rope close to his chin, push forward gently. Give praise and positive reinforcement when he takes a small step. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. Never wrap the lead rope around any part of yourself – this is for your own safety. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.This is a great exercise used by most horse trainers and owners. Many of the skills, commands and cues that your horse will require for saddle work can be taught by performing lunging exercises.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. The lungeing rope will be much longer than the lead rope at about thirty feet long. Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Face your horse’s left side to begin, whilst holding the lunge rope. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along. Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Let the line out and follow the horse just behind and to the left side and make a kissing sound. Soon that sound will come to mean “move forward” to your horse. As you’re turning and the horse moves in a circle around you, hold the whip slightly behind his hindquarters. The whip is not for hitting. You only need to wave it just a little to get his attention.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

The “whoa” command can be taught at this stage. In a low, calm voice, say the word “whoooaa”. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. Be sure to give him a neck rub with lots of praise when he stops. Your horse needs this positive reinforcement if he is to remember what he needs to do.

You can now change position so that you are lunging your horse anti-clockwise. This is done simply by swapping the lead over to be clipped onto the right of the halter, and holding the lunge whip in your left hand.

These exercises are simple ways to get you started when traiing your horse. Bear in mind that a horse is a huge and powerful creature. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

Saddle training is the ultimate goal for riding, but the groundwork must be laid first. You will first need to lead your horse from the trailer, for example, to the tack area in order to tack-up and then ride. Not much point in teaching your horse point B, the saddle riding part, if there’s no way to get there from point A is there?. When your horse learns to cooperate with you, you can act as a team. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

The primary objective in teaching a horse acceptable behaviour is safety for both of you. He will need to be taught that his natural tendency to pull against the lead rope, for example, is not allowed. Your horse should also know that he must not invade the personal space of the human leader on the other end of the rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

Leading your horse requires that you use the three Ps of horse training: patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

Beginning lead training when the horse is still a foal is the easiest plan. Although you won’t need to cover saddles and riding with a very young horse, it’s important to get an early start when teaching basic ground manners. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you’re lucky enough to have the dam on site, the foal will copy the behaviours of the dam. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. A young horse will naturally learn from his elders. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They learn by watching the others. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Horses notice everything that goes on around them – particularly if it involves other horses within the herd – so you can be sure that your student will be paying attention.

Begin by leading a more experienced horse or dam along with your young student horse, walking side by side with you in the middle leading both at once. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. Using a longer lead rope and simply tow the young trainee behind the more experienced horse. Since it’s natural for the young to follow the elders behaviours, this is actually a quite natural method for teaching the lead.

If you don’t have the luxury of having other horses close by from which your student can learn, you will need to rely heavily on your skills of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. You will get there in the end but it will probably take a bit longer for the horse to understand what is required.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

After you have him walking with you in straight lines with success, try turning slightly to the left, maintaining the space bubble between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Reward him each time he takes a step in the right direction by releasing the pressure on the lead rope.

Lead training can be a testing time. Stay with it and you will see great improvement. To get yourself closer to the day you can saddle up for a ride, you’ll need to put in the work; little and often (every day if possible) works best and will soon give you great results.

Below is a brief description of just three simple groundwork exercises you can perform with your own horse or a horse you are training. Ground exercises are a vital part of getting to know each other and of building trust between you and the horse. Good groundwork sets the stage for all future training. The importance of safety and maintaining your personal space bubble should not be taken lightly.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These are the 3 P’s of basic horse training that will serve you well no matter what level you are training or what you might be training for in the future.

1. Groom your horse.

This is a perfect place to start before practising more advanced exercises with your horse. Your horse will get to know you during this quality time together, and vice verse. Standing beside your horse, brush his back and neck. It is not unusual for the horse to bring his teeth around to you for a little love bite. While horses do this to each other all the time, naturally they cannot do it to humans. Discourage this by simply waving a hand, or by pushing his head back straight. Those massive teeth could really hurt – so be sure to make it clear from the very start that this is not acceptable. Use patience and keep calm. He’ll get the idea and will cooperate. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse.

Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Step forward and walk slowly. He should not try to go ahead of you but should remain at your right side. He may try to do this and you should walk around in a circle to your left. Do this as many times as necessary. Be persistent. By circling to your left you will stay just ahead of him as it should be. If, on the other hand, your horse doesn’t want to walk with you, stand slightly behind at his shoulder facing the same direction. Hold the rope close to his chin and push forward. When he takes a little step, praise and positive reinforcement is in order. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. For your safety, never wrap the lead rope around any part of you. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.

This is a fantastic exercise which the vast majority of horse owners and certainly all horse trainers will use to teach their horse about what is expected. Lunging will teach many of the skills and commands, or cues, your horse will need to know when you’re ready to work him under saddle.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. This will be 30 ft long (approximately 10m), much longer than the short lead rope you use for the lead exercise.

Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Start by facing the horse’s left side while holding the lunge line. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along.

Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Now let out the rope as you follow behind the horse to the left side, making a kissing sound as you do so. He’ll begin to associate that sound with “move forward”. Just hold the whip slightly behind the horse’s hindquarters as you are turning and the horse is moving in a circle around you. The whip is not for hitting. Simply by waving it about a little the horse should pay attention to you.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

This is the perfect time to teach your horse to understand “whoa”. Say the word “whoooaaa” in a low and calm voice. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. When he stops, give him lots of praise and a little neck rub. You will help him remember what to do through this positive reinforcement.

Changing your position now will allow you to lunge your horse in an anti-clockwise manner. It’s done in the same way, but with the lead clipped to the right side of the halter and the lunge whip in the left hand.

These are just a few basic exercises for you to get started with hands-on horse training. Always remember the size and sheer power of the horse. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

Horse riders will of course see saddle training as the ultimate goal, but first it’s necessary to complete the groundwork. You will need to take your horse from trailer or barn to the tack area, tack up, and then you’ll ride. Not much point in teaching your horse point B, the saddle riding part, if there’s no way to get there from point A is there?. Your horse will need to cooperate with you so the two of you can act as a team. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

With the primary objective of safety in mind, your horse needs to learn what is acceptable behaviour. Pulling against the lead rope, for example, is natural behaviour for a horse which you will need to teach him not to do. Whoever is leading needs to be secure that their personal space will not be invaded by the horse. Many an accident has occurred as a direct result of inattention to the importance of teaching your horse basic safety manners before attempting anything more advanced. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

The three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – come into play when leading your horse. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

Ideally you need to begin lead training with your horse when he is still a foal. Don’t leave it too late to begin teaching ground manners – a very young horse doesn’t need to know about saddles and riding yet, so you have time to focus on these important basics. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you’re lucky enough to have the dam on site, the foal will copy the behaviours of the dam. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. Young horses naturally learn from the older ones in the herd. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They watch the other horses to learn these things. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Your student will be watching, as they do notice everything that happens around them, particularly if it involves other horses in their own herd.

A good place to start is to lead a more experienced horse along with the foal; lead them simultaneously with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. This is done by simply towing the student horse behind using a longer lead rope. It makes sense in fact to teach the lead in this way, as it’s natural for a young horse to follow an elders lead.

You will need to fall back only on the three Ps of horse training in the absence of other horses to help the youngster learn what to do. It will still be viable, but may take a bit longer for your horse to understand what you’d like him to do.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells him that he’s doing things right.

After you have him walking with you in straight lines with success, try turning slightly to the left, maintaining the space bubble between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Remember to release pressure on the lead rope and reward him every time he shows a step in the right direction.

Lead training requires large reserves of patience. Stick with it and you’ll soon see big improvements. Do a little work every day if you can and this will put you closer to the day you can finally saddle up for a ride.

This is basic ground manners explained. In it’s simplest form, good manners means your horse doing as he is told. Your horse should be able to perform each task or movement safely regardless of ease or complexity. The very basics include not pushing, stepping on or otherwise endangering you whether intentionally or not. These may seem like simple annoyances, perhaps, but you can see that there is definitely potential for someone to be seriously hurt. Since horses outweigh you by a ton, literally, a misplaced hoof can break your foot. Better not to find out the hard way whether your equine insurance will cover you for this! If you first establish and then maintain an area of personal space, this can be avoided.

Allowing your horse to nuzzle into your pockets in the search for crunchy treats could land you with a nibble in a rather inconvenient place. These love nibbles will not feel as such when made by teeth as big as those of your horse. Horses in a herd treat each other differently than they must treat us. Often they will bite, nip and crowd each other, but they are somewhat more robust than we are.

Unfortunately, the space bubble lesson has been learned by many the hard way. My first, and subsequently the last, experience with the concept of crowding occurred when I bought my first horse years ago. My wonderful new four-legged friend liked to “help” me with the paddock cleaning. As I shovelled and filled the manure cart, he would come and put his nose into it. Then one day he actually lifted his front hoof and put it into the cart when I put a rake full of manure in. He knocked the cart over, which spooked him, which in turn spooked the other three horses in the paddock. There was a furore of hooves and tails a-flying and I was stuck amongst this. Thankfully I was not hurt, but this could have been a mild or even a serious disaster – and may have even necessitated a claim on my horse insurance.

This was in the basic learning curve time period for both of us. I was so amused at his trying to help me with my chores that I didn’t think about the potential consequences. I learned about the importance of safety manners that day. From that moment on I taught him how to respect my space when going about my tasks within the paddock and with the other horses. There was still plenty of time to be cute during our training time.

The three Ps of horse training success can be utilized to teach basic safety manners to your horse. The relationship which you have with any horse – be it your own or one you are training for someone else – is largely dependant on the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement.

Patience. Remember that your horse doesn’t yet know what is expected of him. You will go a long way in building trust by showing patience with your horse when showing him what to do, and letting him try and try again until he gets it. Allow your mind to become clear of stresses and strain before you start a training session. Take a deep breath and relax. It is part of the natural learning process for your horse to test the waters. He needs to check and see if what he thinks you want is correct. This can occur several times before the horse has confirmed his correct assessment of the task.

Persistence. Don’t simply give up when things don’t happen quickly. At first it is hard to communicate. You will both need to learn how to speak the same language! Stay with it and be consistent in your cues. Horses are very perceptive to even the slightest cue. Your horse will only cooperate when he has learned what the cue means.

Positive reinforcement. Whenever your horse does something correctly, show him a signal. The best reward for a horse may not be those tasty treats. They love to be released when they’ve done their job. Imagine the “whoa!” or “stop” cue. This is a pull on the bit within his mouth. When the horse exhibits the signs that he understands that you want him to stop, release the bit immediately. That tells him he’s doing the right thing.

Horses need to know their limits. How close can he stand to you before you feel crowded? Can he pull on the lead rope if he doesn’t want to go the way you are leading him? If he doesn’t feel inclined to pick up his foot, will you allow him to get away with this? For a horse this is not natural, even though to us it may seem like common sense. A correctly and carefully trained horse will forever be both a most pleasing companion and could also represent a lower liability when it comes to renewing your horse insurance policy.

When wanting to train a horse you first need to catch it. Although this may sound simple, it can be surprisingly frustrating when you attempt this for the first time. This is the most important step in horse training. The foundations of trust are laid in this step. It is important to remember the three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – at every stage during the process of training your horse. These three elements work together to help you with each step of horse training.

The most efficient way to begin the approach is to have the horse in an enclosure of easily manageable size. A round pen is the best type of enclosure to use, but you can use any large fenced area or paddock if you don’t have one.

You should start by casually approaching the enclosure. Do your very best to relax and give the impression of calm. Leave your life’s stress outside the pen. Since horses are prey animals, they are easily intimidated by anyone or anything that emits stress or aggression of any kind. You wouldn’t want your horse to see you as a possible threat, which is how he will interpret those emotions. Trust needs to be built between you and the horse.

Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. This will happen in good time. For the time being the priority is familiarisation – you with the horse and more importantly, the horse with you. Walk inside and just stand around for a couple of minutes. Don’t look at the horse directly. Predators eyeball their prey and stare into their eyes to intimidate them. Your horse must not see you as a predator. The horse needs to see you as part of the herd.

Take in a rake or a shovel next time and tidy up a bit. Do some basic maintenance checks on the fence panels. The horse should not be approached yet. Wait for the horse to approach and investigate your actions. A horse is a naturally curious creature. When the horse realises it’s you again, he will come to check you out with a good sniff.

If the horse is unfamiliar with human contact this step can take some time. For some horses shyness is not a problem, and they will approach you the minute you enter the enclosure. Both ways are acceptable. However long it takes for the horse to become accustomed to you, it is important for trust that you let him get there in his own time. Patience!

Don’t see this as an opportunity to grab the horse. The most important thing to remember here is patience. To build this foundation for training and for a lasting relationship takes time. It is important not to rush this step.

When the horse at last approaches you, turn your back and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. You will show the horse that you are the one in charge by walking away first.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each others presence. Remember to use a slow, relaxed manner to walk towards the horse. A skittish equine can be approached more easily from the side. Without staring at the horse, move towards the side. Move closer to your new friend whilst glancing sideways. Do not ever attempt to fit the halter by sneaking up on your horse. How will you hold onto the horse when “caught” if the horse is frightened? Trust will be broken in this manner and you will be back to square one. And of course you could be hurt. The emphasis here is on patience and persistence.

On being allowed to get close to the horse, ensure that you use plenty of positive reinforcement. The first moments you spend together should have nothing to do with work. This step is about bonding. Stroking your horse along his neck area, grooming your horse, and talking to him softly are all methods of positive reinforcement. The horse should see this as enjoyable interaction. Now is the time you are both ready for training.

A word on safety:
Never approach a horse from behind unless you are very familiar and the horse knows you. A swift kick can be registered before you can even think about moving out of a horse’s way. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Always approach where you can be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurancein place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses, while very beautiful animals, are strong and powerful with the capability of delivering an incredibly debilitating kick. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like us, they also need to feel a bit special, and the little extra love will go a long way.

Horses are herd animals and will enjoy the company of other equines. They also see their owner as part of their herd, usually as herd leader. A horse’s chewing or licking are both signs of affection and of submission to your status as leader. Spending time with your horse will cement the bond of mutual trust. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

Horses are naturally clean animals and it is important that they have clean stables which are warm with deep bedding provided. Providing deep bedding will help to protect your horse’s joints and legs as well as giving them a comfy and secure place to lie down.

Mealtimes are important to a horse. Be sure to feed little and often, as they will also be grazing throughout the day outside. It’s best to incorporate all appropriate foods, to keep a healthy balance. It’s essential to supply your horse with plenty of fibre, so ensure there is lots of fresh hay or grass. Another great source of fibre is grain, although too much of this could cause stomach upsets. You need to make sure there is fresh water available. Water prevents the food becoming solid by allowing it to ferment in the horse’s stomach. Routine is something a horse responds well to, so time your feeding regularity accordingly. Your horse should be fed at the same time each day.

Grooming your horse daily will show the horse that they are loved – they will enjoy extra attention from you which grooming brings. Make sure you do lots of rubbing, scratching and brushing. This is such an enjoyable part of the day for both of you. Grooming will maintain their coat and keep it glossy, smooth and free from pests. You will also need to pick your horse’s hooves daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

Exercise is vital for a horse’s happiness. A horse needs daily exercise. Vary your exercise routines to include things like jumping and cross-country. On the other hand, also let your horse have play time. Turn them out so they can be free in their paddock. Your horse may want to play with the other horses, or simply hang out with them and relax. It’s as important to allow your horse to relax as it is to exercise him, or else his behaviour may become erratic.

The above tips are just a few pieces of advice which can help you look after the physical and psychological needs of your horse. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like humans, it is those little extras that they need to be truly at peace with their place in the world.

Horses, as herd animals, enjoy being in the company of other equines, so keep them in a shared paddock if possible. Owner’s are often viewed as herd leader. They will often show their affection by chewing or licking; here they are submitting to your leadership. Spending time with your horse will cement the bond of mutual trust. When this is achieved, it will have a positive effect on all areas in the horse’s handling and riding.

Horses are naturally clean animals and it is important that they have clean stables which are warm with deep bedding provided. A deep bed will help to alleviate any stress on joints and legs, as well as giving them a place to lie down in safety and comfort.

Mealtimes are important to a horse. You must ensure that you feed them little and often, as they will also graze outside all day. All appropriate foods can be incorporated into your horse’s diet to provide a healthy balance. Your horse needs lots of fibre for his digestive system, so lots of fresh grass or hay is essential. Grain is also superb, but not too much as it can upset the stomach. Water must always be available and accessible. Water prevents the food becoming solid by allowing it to ferment in the horse’s stomach. The food regularity is also important, as they are best when in routines. Always feed them at the same time every day.

Horses enjoy the attention they get whilst being groomed – it makes them feel secure and loved. Give them lots of rubs, brushes and scratches. This is real quality time which you should both enjoy every day. Grooming your horse will not only keep his coat glossy and smooth, but can also help to keep pests and parasites at bay. Do not forget about your horse’s feet; hooves should be picked daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

A horse needs regular exercise to remain happy. You need to give your horse daily exercise. Vary your exercise routines to include things like jumping and cross-country. On the other hand, also let your horse have play time. Turn them out so they can be free in their paddock. Then they can socialise, play and have some time to themselves too. It’s as important to allow your horse to relax as it is to exercise him, or else his behaviour may become erratic.

Part of the physical and psychological well-being of your horse can be taken care of by following these few simple but important tips. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.