Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist.

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

The more you learn about horses in general and your horses in particular, the better you will be at avoiding most problems and promptly treating the rest. Never be put off by the fact that you don’t know as much as other people. Everyone started out knowing nothing and nobody knows everything. The important thing is to continually learn.

Cribbing is a compulsive behavior, which horses sometimes develop as a result of boredom, typically resulting from being left in a box much of the day with nothing to do. It consists of the horse firmly biting an object, arching its neck while pulling on the object, and sucking in air. It is believed that this triggers the release of chemicals (endorphins) in the brain, giving a pleasurable sensation. Cribbing is also known as ‘wind sucking’ or ‘crib biting’.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse’s teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

An interesting environment will normally prevent the development of cribbing, and help already cribbing horses to reduce the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, this in itself will seldom cure it completely. One needs to combine this action with treatment to physically prevent the horse from cribbing, in order to eventually break the habit.

One common approach is a cribbing strap (also known as cribbing collar), which fits around the neck and holds a small metal plate to the underside of the neck, making cribbing uncomfortable. Alternatively, one can use a special muzzle which fits over the head, preventing the horse from reaching objects with its teeth but still allowing it to feed through the metal grill. Painting fence rails with a specialty paint which gives them a bad taste (use only the veterinary approved paints) will discourage cribbing on them, as will adding a fencing wire (with electrical current) to the top of rails. Some horse owners have also reported improvements with certain medications (e.g. anti-depressants for the horse). Finally, there is a surgical solution which involves cutting certain neck muscles and nerves to make cribbing physically impossible, although this should be seen as a final option.

It is important to both address the base issue (intense boredom) and to try to physically discourage the horse using one of the above approaches. Trying just one or the other is seldom effective.

Working in the horse business, I often get asked how much a good horse costs. Unfortunately, the question is almost always in terms of ‘how much to buy’ rather than ‘how much to keep’. The sad truth is that far too many people are buying horses and then finding that they cannot afford to keep them.

In part, this is due to the fact that people involved in the horse business (breeding, selling, training) do not want to scare potential buyers off by telling them just how expensive horse ownership is. After all, if someone is unsure if they can spend a few thousand dollars to buy a horse, the seller will likely lose the deal if they explain that it may cost 000 to 000 over the next 10 years. Although there may be honest horse people that do go out of their way to explain the cost of a horse, in our experience they are in the small minority.

If you know someone looking to buy a horse, you can do them a big favour by letting them know the financial implications in advance. Of course, it is hard to quote a specific number as costs vary from under /month to over 00/month depending on circumstances. However, here are some tips on how to do a rough calculation.

The first consideration is whether the horse will be stabled with a professional or stabled by them. If the horse will be stabled with a professional, phone around to check the local monthly costs (including box, food, bedding and labour). You can find the phone numbers for the local professionals in the yellow pages or ask your local vet. Such costs can vary from 0/month to over 00/month, with the higher end associated with urban areas.

Alternatively, if you keep the horse yourself rather than using a professional stable, you can save on these costs. However, you will still need to purchase bedding and feed, which will typically cost a minimum of 0/month. If you have lots of pasture, you can spend a bit less on feed. Keep in mind that 0/month is a minimum, in some areas bedding and feed (especially hay) can be far more expensive.

Aside from the basic monthly costs, there are various incidentals such as mineral stones, salt, de-wormers, dental checks and annual innoculations. Allow about 0/year for these. In addition, if you decide on medical insurance, this will be an additional /month. Of course, insurance is optional, but a bad case of colic can cost thousands of dollars, as can certain other injuries or illnesses, so it may be a good investment.

Another consideration is how you use the horse. Riding the horse means that you will need to buy a saddle, tack and riding clothes. Showing or competing with the horse involves additional expenses.

All of this adds up to a considerable amount of money. For many people, the joy of owning and riding a horse more than makes up for it. However, before purchasing a horse, it is wise to look beyond the cost of buying to the cost of owning.

Although cushings disease occurs in different animals (horses, dogs, even people), the symptoms for each species are different. For example, in horses it causes the coat to grow longer and thicker, often becoming curly, whereas in dogs it has the opposite effect of causing hair to fall out and produce bald spots. The equine (horses, ponies, etc.) version of this illness is known as ECD (Equine Cushings Disease).

ECD is an illness caused by excessive hormone production. The pituitary gland produces too much hormone, which over-stimulates the adrenal glands, which in turn produce too much steroids. It is the excessive quantity of steroids which causes the symptoms associated with ECD. The over-production of the pituitary can be caused various changes, such as the growth of benign tumors, enlargement of the pituitary due to age-related changes, or a decline in the regulatory chemical dopamine due to age-related changes in the brain. All of these factors tend to be age related, so the disease is much more common in older horses (over 15 years) although it has been found in horses as young as seven years.

Cushings was first identified in explained in’21, by Dr. Cushing, after whom the disease is name. ECD is the equine variation of the disease first identified in humans by Dr. Cushing.

Different horses show different symptoms of Equine Cushings Disease. The most common symptom is coat changes (longer, thicker, curly, failure to shed in Spring, becoming lighter in color). The heavier coat results in increased sweating as a secondary symptom, due to over-heating, especially in summer. The horse tends to lose muscle in its neck and back, despite increased appetite and eating more, while developing a pendulous abdomen. Diabetes often develops, with an associated increase in water consumption and urination. Laminitis always develops eventually. The horse becomes more prone to infections and slower to heal from external injuries due to a depressed immune system. The natural depressions above the eyes tend to fill in with fat.

Each of these symptoms could be caused by other illnesses, so it is often a combination of them which results in ECD being diagnosed. Urine and blood tests can be used to rule out other possible causes and to confirm the presence of ECD. Studies have found that many older horses (especially ponies) have ECD than are diagnosed. Consequently, greater care is required to identify ECD in the early stages, when controlling treatment is effective.

Although ECD is not curable, it can be treated. The most common treatment is the use of medication to reduce hormone production to near normal levels, thereby slowing down the development of secondary problems.

As cushings disease can result in the development of secondary diseases (e.g. laminitis, diabetes), the horse needs to be closely monitored for any symptoms of these, with appropriate and prompt treatment.

Finally, one should make the horse more comfortable by treating the individual symptoms. If the horse is over-heating due to a heavier coat, one should clip the coat to make the horse more comfortable.

Some people are allergic to horses. Depending on the person, this can result in a combination of the following symptoms:

• Itchy or watery eyes
• Itchy or running nose
• Itchy skin, hives or rashes
• Sneezing or coughing
• Difficulty breathing
• Asthma attack

The severity of these symptoms can range from a minor runny nose to a serious asthma attack. In the case of asthma sufferers, care should be taken when first coming into contact with horses, as there have been a few cases of fatal asthma attacks. This is doubly true for asthmatic children, who in the excitement of being with horses may not notice the early symptoms, so they should be monitored by an adult when first encountering horses to ensure that they do not have a serious adverse reaction.

Horse dander (dandruff like bits of skin or hair) is the most common cause of horse allergies. Other causes include horse mites, salvia or urine.

It is possible to have an allergic reaction without being near a horse, through indirect contact. For example, if one has a friend or family member who rides, horse dander may have rubbed off onto their clothes or hair or horse tack which they bring home. There are a number of cases where one family member rides horses, resulting in another family member having allergic reactions or asthma due to contact with clothing or equipment which the rider brings home. Similarly, going into a barn or other enclosed area where horses have been can result in a reaction event if no horses are present at the time.

Fortunately, horse allergies can be treated, using the same approaches as for other allergies. These include avoidance (if practical and acceptable), medications (such as anti-histamines or corticosteroids), or desensitizing treatment.

If you want to ride horses but find that allergies are making this difficult (or less enjoyable), another approach is to try riding a curly horse breed. Many people who are allergic to other breeds of horses find that they have little or no reaction with these breeds.

You may also wish to be medically tested to determine which aspect of horses you are allergic to. For example, if you are allergic to horse mites, treatment of the horse and its box against mites may reduce your symptoms to acceptable levels. Likewise, if it is urine or saliva you are allergic to, one can take care to avoid these specific elements when involved with horses.

Wood chewing is a common horse problem which not only damages wood but can also injure your horse. The splinters can get stuck in the teeth or gums of the horse. If swallowed, they could puncture the stomach or intestines. Consequently, to protect your horse and your property, one should correct this habit as soon as possible.

One should first check that the problem is actually wood chewing and not the more serious issue of horse cribbing. The two are sometimes confused as both result in wood damage and both involve the horse biting wood. However, they are very different problems. Wood chewing is simply that the horse chews on wood. Cribbing doesn’t involve chewing the wood but rather the horse firmly griping the wood with its teeth, then arching its neck and swallowing air. If you happen to see a horse performing either of these activities it should be apparent which is the problem, since they are very different. Looking at the damaged wood will also likely determine which problem the horse has as in one case it will be nibbled away whereas in the other it has been firmly gripped and pulled.

The most common cause of wood chewing is boredom. Horses which are left in their boxes most of the day with nothing to do simply do not have enough mental stimulation, so they start chewing on wood to occupy themselves. Another cause is stress or nervousness; just as some people chew their fingernails or pencils when they are stressed, a nervous horse confined to its box with nowhere to direct its nervous energy may start chewing on wood to distract itself. The third possible cause of wood chewing in nutritional deficiencies; if the horse’s food does not contain all the minerals they need they will start to chew on other items (such as wood or earth) in an attempt to obtain the missing minerals.

If one does not know which of these possible causes is the issue, one can simply address all three. Try to provide as much pasture time, exercise and other mental stimulation as possible so that the horse is not bored. Watch the horse to see possible sources of stress (such as bullying by another horse) and fix the problem. Put a mineral stone and salt lick in its box to address any mineral deficiencies in its normal diet.

With the above steps, one should quickly see a reduction in wood chewing activity. Unfortunately, once a horse has been chewing wood for some time, it becomes a habit and continues even after the original cause is removed. Consequently, in addition to fixing the habit, one also needs to take steps to break the habit.

One does this by making it impossible (or at least unpleasant) for the horse to chew on wood. One can place metal strips on top of wood (e.g. stall doors) so that they cannot be nibbled. An electric fence wire can be added to the tops of fencing rails to discourage chewing. Alternatively, one can paint wooden surfaces with paints which are made to taste horrible (ensure that the paint is approved by your veterinarian.

It is important to do both these steps: address the cause and discourage the activity. If one treats the cause (e.g. boredom) but not the behavior (e.g. with unpleasant tasting paint) the habit may diminish but is unlikely to stop. Alternatively, treating the behavior (with unpleasant paint) but not the cause may stop the horse from chewing wood but the horse may then develop a different behavioral problem in response to the continuing underlying problem.

One of the best places to find a free horse (or a very cheap one) is horse rescue associations. They take on a large number of horses each year but have only so much room (pasture, boxes), money (for food, bedding and other costs) and staff (to muck out and provide general care). Consequently, most of them are very happy to give a horse away to a good home, as this frees up room for other rescue horses and saves money. Usually they will provide a horse for free, although they may ask an administration fee (to help cover a portion of their direct costs).

Aside from getting a horse for free (almost), you are also helping out not only that horse but making room for the association to take on another rescue horse. So, you can save money and know that you are doing a good deed at the same time. Another advantage is that rescue organisations are non-profit and consequently looking at what is best for the horse and new owner, so are more likely to be honest about potential issues and the suitability of the horse to your requirements than businesses offering horses for sale.

The rescue association will want to know that any horse they pass on will be well taken care of, so expect an interview prior to the association agreeing to give you a horse. They will want to know that there are proper facilities (e.g. box, paddock, fields) for the horse. You will also need to demonstrate that you have the personal commitment, time and money to properly take care of the horse.

On your side, you need to make sure that the horse does not have any unacceptable faults, either health wise or in terms of behavior. One should discuss the horse’s current condition and its background. You should ask about the conclusions of any examinations (including veterinary) done for the association, as well as the general opinion of the staff who are taking care of the horse.

In particular, one should ask why the horse has been taken into care. If it was simply because the owner could no longer keep it (e.g. due to financial difficulties) or lost interest in it (a common situation with horses purchased for young children), then the horse is probably sound. However, if the horse was rescued because it was neglected or abused, then it may have longer term physical or behavioral issues that you need to be aware of. Likewise, if the owner gave up the horse because it was sick or no longer suitable for riding.

It is also important to be clear about your requirements. If you are looking for a companion horse, then age and riding ability are not that important. However, if you intend to ride the horse regularly, then it should be reasonably young and fit, preferably well trained as well. It may be that the rescue centre does not have a horse which meets your requirements. In this case, rather than compromise on your requirements, it is best to wait. Make sure that the staff know that you will provide a good home for the right horse, and provide in writing both your requirements and your contact information. Given the frequency with which horses are rescued, it is quite likely that the horse you are looking for will become available in a few weeks or months, unless your requirements are unusual.

Although it does depend on individual circumstances (e.g. whether you are an experienced trainer or not), most people buying a horse are better off getting a fully trained horse. If you are intending to use a horse just for basic riding, it is advisable to buy one already trained in the basics; if you are using a horse for advanced riding consider getting one already trained to the advanced level. Likewise, if you are using it for show jumping, get one which is already trained in show jumping.

Of course, after looking at horses for sale, one can purchase an untrained horse or a partly trained horse. Such a horse will be less expensive to buy. Also, you can instruct a trainer on exactly how you want the horse trained, and you can have the experience and pleasure of participating in this. However, against these advantages, there are a number of disadvantages:

• Training Expenses. With an untrained horse, training is an additional cost which one has to factor in. Aside from the direct costs of the trainer, unless the trainer comes to you there is the additional cost of transporting the horse to the trainer for each lesson, or stabling the horse with the trainer. The exact costs of training depend on individual circumstances, but they are under-estimated far more often than over-estimated. Frequently, once one factors in the final total training costs, it would have been cheaper to have purchased a horse that was already trained.
• Accidents. Accidents can easily occur during training, even with a good trainer. These may result in vet costs or worse.
• Incorrect Training. Some trainers are not as good as others. In addition, many trainers will rush training or under-estimate the amount required, to get the contract at an acceptable price. This may result in an incompletely or incorrectly trained horse.
• Feel of the Horse. Two horses, with the exact same training, will feel differently to a rider due to the individual characteristics (build, personality, movement) of the horse. With an already trained horse, one can ride it before buying to know exactly how it feels, whereas with an untrained horse one can only guess what it will feel like after training.
• Health Check. It is easier to evaluate the health of a trained horse than an untrained one, as one can ride it and also watch it while being ridden in each gait. With an untrained horse, health checks are not quite as complete.

Because of these factors, buying an already trained horse is often less expensive, less risky and less stressful than buying an untrained or partly trained horse and then having it trained up.

You should not try to train a horse yourself, unless you are a professional horse trainer or working under the complete supervision of a professional horse trainer. When non-professionals train horses, the horse will almost certainly pick up bad habits and behaviors (which are very time consuming and expensive to correct), as well as the risk of accidental injury to the novice trainer.

Be wary of purchasing an incompletely trained horse on the basis that the seller will complete the training. Far too often in these circumstances the remaining training is rushed and not done to the highest standards. Insist on the horse being trained up first and pay no more than a holding deposit until this is done and you’ve ridden the horse to make sure that you are fully happy with the result.

There are hundreds of different breeds of horses, but they are grouped into three broad categories: coldblood, warmblood and hot blood.

The cold blood breeds originated in Europe. They were bred for heavy work and long hours, pulling farm equipment, carts, barges and other heavy items. They had to have both power and endurance but there was little need for speed. Consequently, they were bred to have well developed muscles, on heavy bones and large joints. They also need to have a calm, even docile nature, so that they would obey commands and would not frighten and run off with farm equipment or other loads. In response to the need to work in cold European winters, their tails, manes and coats had long, thick hair. The Shire horse and the Clydesdale are typical cold blood breeds.

The hot bloods are from warmer climates, in particular the middle-east, where they were bred for racing and riding. They have much lighter bodies, legs and joints than the cold bloods, as they are build for speed and distance rather than for raw power. Having been developed in warm regions, they have relatively short coats, manes and tail hair so that they can shed heat better. For the same reason, they have lots of blood vessels near the surface of the skin, to improve heat dissipation. All of these factors support their speed and racing success. Likewise, they are spirited horses with a desire to run, the very opposite of the calm and docile temperament of cold bloods. The Arabian and the Thoroughbred are classic hot blood breeds.

The warmbloods (or warm bloods) have characteristics between the cold bloods and hot bloods, both physically and temperamentally. Some, but not all, of the warmblood breeds were created by crossing hot blood breeds and cold blood breeds to produce a new breed, followed by selective breeding to retain the best characteristics of the warm and cold ancestry. They have an athletic build and speed, combined with intelligence and calm (but not docile) disposition. As such, they excel in sports such as show jumping which require not only physical speed but also intelligence, a settled disposition and trainability. Examples are the Friesian and Hanoverian breeds.

The categories cold, warm and hot has nothing to do with the temperature of the horses (all horses have a normal temperature of about 38C) or their blood. Instead, it refers to the origin of the breeds (cold or hot climates), their build (heavy or athletic) and their character (calm or spirited).

Over time, the requirements for horses changes. As farm work has been taken over by tractors and transport by cars, the breeding objectives have been more towards sports and pleasure riding. In this environment, the warmbloods (and perhaps to a lesser extent the hot bloods) have been somewhat more successful that the cold bloods. Fortunately, a number of cart pulling and other heavy sports have been created to support these breeds. In addition, the calm and stable nature of the cold bloods has made them particularly popular with many children and less confident horse riders.

When deciding on a new horse, a key factor is its health. Although one cannot be 100% certain that a horse is absolutely healthy, there are some basic checks.

The first indication is the general appearance. It should have a shinny, even and flat coat. The body should be well muscled, neither fat nor skinny. When standing, it should spread its weight evenly on all four legs, with each hoof pointing straight ahead. While normal to rest a leg from time to time, it should not be for long periods or always the same leg, as this would indicate an injury or weakness.

Slowly run your hands down the legs, from top to bottom, with careful attention to joints and the lower leg. There should be no bumps, swellings or hot spots. The hoof walls should be even, free of cracks and completely smooth.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

Check the gums. They should be pink, shiny and moist. If they are dry, tacky, pale or any color other than salmon pink, there is a health issue. If one presses gently on the gums (careful with your fingers!), at the point where you are pressing they will turn white but as soon as you remove your finger the color should completely return to pink within two seconds.

Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should look happy, alert and interested in what is happening. Its ears should stand up and should move alertly in response to sounds. It should be interested in what is happening around it, but not nervous.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

It should not sweat (except during hot weather) until it has been worked for some time at speed. Its respiration should gradually increase as the gait picks up but it should not breathe hard except at a fast gait. As the gait is reduced, its respiration should quickly reduce. Once the horse stops, its breathing and pulse should quickly return to resting normal. Neither during nor after exercise should the horse shown any sign of discomfort, pain or limping.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.