The bit truly is the key to the horse. The relationship between horse and rider can be complex and many riders jump too quickly to conclusions regarding their riding problems . Horses are personalities in their own right and how you successfully control them, whether in horse racing, show jumping or just a sunday afternoon ride is not just about the bit. It is how you, your horse and the bit work together. Don’t forget it might be you that is the problem and not the horse. In this article we will review what different horse bits bring to this relationship, and how to make that relationship successful .

When considering the partnership between the rider and the horse the bit is essential to the success of that relationship , and finding the right bit for the job can be a challenge and often relying on luck in the end .

By correlating what you observe in your horse’s behaviour with the variety of bit features , one can become more confident about the bit you choose, however perfectly categorising horse bits and their specific function is difficult.  Many of the features of horse bits are often mixed together to form new varieties, however for our purposes in this article we will create some broad definitions that will form the basis of future discussion.

What follows is a brief overview of horse bit types.

Snaffles are known as direct pressure bits. When the rider pulls on the rein, the same amount of force is transmitted directly to the horse bit . This style of bit is particularly useful when training a new horse but it can be used at anytime.

Curbs bits are different to snaffles and rely on leverage . The physical construction of the bit is designed to generate leverage and multiplies the pressure applied by the rider . The longer the bit shank or cheek length the more force will be generated . Due to this leverage effect and potential discomfort to the horse, curbs are best used in the hands of a more experienced rider whom has developed a controlled touch.

“Combo Bits” .  The snaffle and curb effect can be found in one bit with some bits such as Pelhams and Gags.

To complement these basic principles of horse control there are a wide variety of bit attributes giving great flexibility to the knowledgeable rider looking to address particular issues with their horse.  As an example the swales 3-in-1 bit offers a number of combinations of features.  The swales is popular with riders with strong horses.  This controlling force is applied through a curbing action and can be varied by choosing a specific shank length.

One can also choose different materials for the bit, for example copper offers a affect that encourages the horse to salivate and may help the horse be more responsive to the bits action. Whereas a rubber bit is a gentler bit and often a good option for the younger horse as they are learning to correctly respond to the will of the rider and the action of the bit.

A stronger bit might subsequently be necessary if the rubber bit is loosing its effect such as when the horse gets bigger or more canny.  Having said that when the horse works well with the soft bit do not feel you must change as the horse gets older. As the saying goes “if it aint broke dont fix it” which is often a good philosophy with horses .

Modifying port height in the bit is another variable you might consider. The height of the port can allow more room for the tongue but when the reins are pulled more force is put on the horse’s palate e.g. High Port Pelham. So in this case very careful evaluation of your requirements is recommended so that you do not injure your horse .

To summarise one can physically control the horse with direct or indirect force. Also the bit can be modified to provide more or less force depending on the horse.  The behaviour of the horse can be affected by adjustments to the mouth piece form and even what it is made from e.g. copper or rubber.

In future articles we will look at some typical horse and rider problems that can be addressed by using different bit forms.  However remember your horse is a animal that deserves love and respect and one should not simply apply general rules in a prescriptive way .  Your horse cannot talk but he is definitely trying to help you solve your problem.

The Saddlebred Horse is a type of horse first produced in the state of Kentucky. These days they are to be found in countless showring disciplines, and they are also to be found in racing, horse parades, and hunts.

Distinctions of the American Saddlebred:
They have a manner which allows them to be proficient in almost any job in which they are wanted. They’re also renowned for their endurance and the ability to learn quickly.

The Saddlebred horse is highly intuitive and keen. It is flash horse and will step high, and are often spoken of as the “peacocks of the show ring.”  The favorite Saddlebred is one that has superb structure and is striking. They possess large eyes which are sharp, and their ears have a distinct, yet beautiful form. The American Saddlebred is recognized for possessing a head which is properly equal to its body.

These horses are also acknowledged for withers that are prominent and muscular shoulders.

American Saddlebreds are also accepted for being five gaited, and this is a trait which was handed down from their predecessors.

Saddlebred Ancestry:
This breed of horses was first developed in the eighteenth century by the Americans who bred the Thoroughbred horse with a Narragansett Pacer. At this time the Pacer was very well regarded, though many people haven’t heard of it nowadays. Numerous people who lived on plantations often used these horses for the reason that they were comfortable and characteristically had an excellent gait. They have grown to become a very fashionable horse. The American Saddlebreds are very popular  in the state of Kentucky.

Saddlebred horses work well along with harnesses and have enough strength to carry out farm work. Their pace also allows them to be used in certain types of races. By the midst of the 18th century, the DNA from the Morgan horse were added to give the Saddlebred more power and speed. It was this mixture with the Thoroughbred breed that permitted the American Saddlebred breed to be produced. These horses began to become increasingly sought after past 1940. ‘Denmark’, a stallion, was born in 1939, and roughly 60% of every American Saddlebreds today are descendants of this one horse.

Saddlebred horses are amongst the most fashionable breeds of horses across the world, and have been purchased by presidents, generals, and additional prestigious figures. They are also starring in a lot of films. Saddlebreds are also well known in the showing circle.

To conclude, American Saddlebred horses are among of the most well known and popular breeds within the United States. Their appearance and striking personality have made them sought after by several horse lovers.

If you are currently searching for horses for sale or ponies for sale take a look at The Horse and Pony Directory.

Each and every horse should be shown a path to move in a particular direction by a rider. When the rider rides the horse, he/she makes use of the lead rope linked with the halter to command the horse to move in a certain path at a certain speed. It’s not the halter of the horse which controls him but the lead rope which helps a rider command a horse.

The most basic exercise is instructing the horse when to begin walking or running ahead and when to stop. This exercise will have to last for not more than 10 – 15 minutes. While he’s still a foal, a child horse that could be lower than one yr old, you’ll be able  to prepare him easily with these exercises as will probably be simpler for you to command him. He will also be trained effectively by taking him for a walk around with you so that he starts understanding your commands simply as a habit.

To start out this lesson, take your horse to a small indoor arena. This will carry fewer distractions compared to an outside area, making it simpler to care for the horse’s concentration.

While you walk around a little after which stand still from time to time, this offers the horse the command and the understanding to “stand”. Never pull the lead rope backwards when you want to cease, as an alternative just apply just a little strict resistance or strain from backwards in order that he understands that you don’t wish to move further. At first, your horse would possibly stop in front, however his rear legs may move 1 / 4 circle. As you keep on working with him, he will learn to come up to a complete stop.

Let your horse check out the entire place freely if it’s his first time in an arena. Don’t lead him or command him to go towards a certain route, just observe him around and let him move freely.

There are 2 concepts that you should train to your horse by the utilization of common movements. To show the horse a route for moving forward or ahead, walk around with him shoulder-to-shoulder with your horse going through the same path he’s moving towards. Turning in the path of your horse will assist instruct the horse to cease and stand.

As soon as your horse has fully understood the above 2 concepts, it would become reasonably simple that you should encourage him to move ahead together with you and make him stop when you would like him to stand still. You can command him to do exactly what you want him to by making “easily perceived moves” via your feet. You’ll generate a mutual understanding regularly together with your horse to guide him forward or command him to cease and stand still wherever & every
time you want him to do so.

It is very important to show a horse how to back-up. Taking a single step backward isn’t merely backing up. To do that, get started by picking up the reins after which do shift your body weight a little backwards. As and when he takes a couple of step backwards, you can let go off all of the pressure that has been built up on him. Keep doing this method until he backs up for as long as you need him to do so.

The horse at all times does what he is educated to do. He learns by means of your consistent instructions which have a similar meaning that you use once in a while to show him a specific movement all the time. The movements could be just anything irrespective of if it is pulling a trailer of products or anything else.

If you’re presently browsing for horses for sale, ponies for sale or horseboxes for sale be sure to visit The Horse and Pony Directory.

Living through the credit crunch is never easy, but when you have ponies and horses who rely on you for nourishment, shelter and medicine, every small amount saved helps.

It’s a well known fact that dozens of horses and ponies are abandoned every week, as owners struggle financially with the economy as it is, because of this there are currently many horses for sale.

Sara Tuppen founder of the Horse Refuge in Wittersham Kent, is well aware of looking after horses on a tight budget, and relies purely on donations to help keep over 40 rescued horses in good condition. According to her there are many ways which could help make owning a horse on a tight budget a little easier:

1. Many horses can live comfortably outside for the majority of the year, providing there’s nurishment, water and shelter available. If this is an acceptable option for your horse, it could reduce the cost of stabling considerably.

2. Removing shoes can be an easy way to reduce outlay. If not ridden regularly, and not ridden on rough surfaces, many horses will not need shoes.

3. Sharing your horse is a great way to cut (even halve!) costs, and helps to provide a cheaper introduction to horse ownership for someone else.

4. In many cases it is possible to get free stabling and occasionally hay and straw in return for chores. Mucking out, grooming, maintenance etc. are all ways which could save you money for a little work!

5. Vets bills are an unknown quantity but still have to be considered. If you’re budget is low, you may sometimes discover a lot of Vets will allow you to pay in instalments.

6. Most of us can also make lifestyle changes! It’s not all about finding ways to keep your horse more cheaply, you can do it too!

7. If achievable, horse owners can often club together to buy feed and straw in bulk, reducing the overall price and passing on savings to all.

8. Finally, you can look into placing your horse in a foster home, even as a family friend.

If you’re fortunate enough to be in a position to share, or even purchase a horse or pony, there are still many horses for sale and ponies for sale available.

Horse training requires a firm basis on the ground before you can move onto saddle training; here are a few basic exercises outlined which can be used when training your own horse or someone else’s. It is important to get these exercises right first, as this is how you and the horse will become familiar with each other and build a trusting relationship. It is the groundwork that will pave the way for future training. It is important for your safety that your new ton-sized friend is taught to respect your personal space bubble.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These three P’s can be applied to all current and future levels of horse training.

1. Groom your horse. This is the perfect first exercise for you and your horse. You’ll get to know each other. Stand beside him and brush his neck and back. A horse will often turn to give you a little love bit at this time. Horses do this to each other, but may not do it to humans. You can discourage this easily enough by the wave of a hand or by pushing his head back to the straight position. Those teeth are HUGE so you must make it clear from the beginning that this is unacceptable. Use patience and keep calm. The horse will understand and cooperate before too long. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse. Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Take a step and walk slowly forward. He should remain at your right side and never try to go ahead of you. If he tries to go ahead just walk around him to your left in a circle. Do this as many times as necessary. Show persistence. Use the circular movement to stay just ahead of him, where you should be. Should your horse not want to walk with you then stand slightly behind him, at his shoulder, facing the same direction. While holding the rope close to his chin, push forward gently. Give praise and positive reinforcement when he takes a small step. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. Never wrap the lead rope around any part of yourself – this is for your own safety. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.This is a great exercise used by most horse trainers and owners. Many of the skills, commands and cues that your horse will require for saddle work can be taught by performing lunging exercises.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. The lungeing rope will be much longer than the lead rope at about thirty feet long. Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Face your horse’s left side to begin, whilst holding the lunge rope. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along. Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Let the line out and follow the horse just behind and to the left side and make a kissing sound. Soon that sound will come to mean “move forward” to your horse. As you’re turning and the horse moves in a circle around you, hold the whip slightly behind his hindquarters. The whip is not for hitting. You only need to wave it just a little to get his attention.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

The “whoa” command can be taught at this stage. In a low, calm voice, say the word “whoooaa”. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. Be sure to give him a neck rub with lots of praise when he stops. Your horse needs this positive reinforcement if he is to remember what he needs to do.

You can now change position so that you are lunging your horse anti-clockwise. This is done simply by swapping the lead over to be clipped onto the right of the halter, and holding the lunge whip in your left hand.

These exercises are simple ways to get you started when traiing your horse. Bear in mind that a horse is a huge and powerful creature. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

A horse with colic is a situation that worries any horse lover. So what exactly is colic in horses? What signs should you keep an eye out for?

Colic in horses refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Generally horses will not handle abdominal pain very well. So in the event of any disturbance of gut functioning they will usually display signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and hoofing the ground. If the pain is greater the horse will stand up and lie down, and try rolling to get more comfortable.

The horse will start to sweat. In more severe cases it will get up and down and roll constantly.

What Should You Do?
Should you believe your horse is suffering from colic, you should call an equine vet immediately. The vet will be in a position to supply rapid pain relief and make a decision whether additional action is appropriate.

What should you do while you wait for the vet to arrive? Leading your horse for a walk sometimes helps. It may encourage his guts to work normally and surpress any pain. It could also prevent your horse lying down to roll. If he is lying on the floor quietly then you should let him stay lying down.

It was thought that horses could cause a twisted gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably not true. Though it is best to prevent him rolling around if you can. That way you can prevent your horse harming himself by banging itself on the stable walls. Of course take care that you don’t get injured yourself. Horses often lose all their manners if in pain.

There are several differing reasons as to why horses get colic. But often the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

What will the vet do to look into the issue? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope which will show them whether there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate provides a good idea of the seriousness of the discomfort and the seriousness of the problem. Usually a horse with a regular heart rate does not have a sever problem. However higher heart rates are not such a promising sign.

A really useful area of the examination is the examination of the rectum. By physically feeling the gut, the vet may be able to find the cause of the problem. Of course this is a highly skilled procedure, that is potentially dangerous for both parties. But for an experienced equine vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the nature of the issue. It may reveal an obstruction, or a swollen gut loop as a result of a twist or other intestinal issue.

It’s likely that in all but the simple cases the vet may inset a tube through the nose into the stomach. This may sound unpleasant but often may make your horse comfortable by releasing the built up pressure from the stomach. This process can also give the vet detailed feedback as to whether the stomach is emptying correctly.

On occasion the horse is in so much pain that it is impossible for the vet to examine him fully without first applying a dose of pain killer.

Only by collecting all of the information provided by a detailed examination is the vet able to make a tentative diagnosis. Even then it may not be possible to tell exactly what is going on.

Sometimes, after the first inspection, the horse needs surgery. Though more usually the vet will choose to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and review his condition after a couple of hours. Most examples show a quick improvement. But others will show no response to the treatment, or they will respond initially, then start displaying signs of discomfort again later.

Rather than having to bring the vet out multiple times, it is usually better to move these cases to a specialist equine practice so they can be monitored closely and surgery can be performed if necessary.

Conclusion
Fortunately the vast majority of cases respond quickly to medical treatment. However if surgery is necessary – it is vital to operate as soon as possible. The chance of a successful outcome is far greater if the operation is performed before too much damage has occurred.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Horse riders will of course see saddle training as the ultimate goal, but first it’s necessary to complete the groundwork. You will need to take your horse from trailer or barn to the tack area, tack up, and then you’ll ride. Not much point in teaching your horse point B, the saddle riding part, if there’s no way to get there from point A is there?. Your horse will need to cooperate with you so the two of you can act as a team. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

With the primary objective of safety in mind, your horse needs to learn what is acceptable behaviour. Pulling against the lead rope, for example, is natural behaviour for a horse which you will need to teach him not to do. Whoever is leading needs to be secure that their personal space will not be invaded by the horse. Many an accident has occurred as a direct result of inattention to the importance of teaching your horse basic safety manners before attempting anything more advanced. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

The three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – come into play when leading your horse. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

Ideally you need to begin lead training with your horse when he is still a foal. Don’t leave it too late to begin teaching ground manners – a very young horse doesn’t need to know about saddles and riding yet, so you have time to focus on these important basics. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you’re lucky enough to have the dam on site, the foal will copy the behaviours of the dam. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. Young horses naturally learn from the older ones in the herd. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They watch the other horses to learn these things. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Your student will be watching, as they do notice everything that happens around them, particularly if it involves other horses in their own herd.

A good place to start is to lead a more experienced horse along with the foal; lead them simultaneously with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. This is done by simply towing the student horse behind using a longer lead rope. It makes sense in fact to teach the lead in this way, as it’s natural for a young horse to follow an elders lead.

You will need to fall back only on the three Ps of horse training in the absence of other horses to help the youngster learn what to do. It will still be viable, but may take a bit longer for your horse to understand what you’d like him to do.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells him that he’s doing things right.

After you have him walking with you in straight lines with success, try turning slightly to the left, maintaining the space bubble between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Remember to release pressure on the lead rope and reward him every time he shows a step in the right direction.

Lead training requires large reserves of patience. Stick with it and you’ll soon see big improvements. Do a little work every day if you can and this will put you closer to the day you can finally saddle up for a ride.

Nicholas Fyffe Dressage Training

The ancient ability of dressage coaching is seemingly more and more  fashionable in America at the moment. It possesses several advantages for serious riders. For a start it can be practiced in a comparatively small place and generally urban residents do not possess trouble-free admittance to large spaces. A further lure of the activity is its terrific aesthetic appeal and the rewards of achieving tight harmony with an equine partner.

In the lower levels of dressage, it can be relatively easy to train a horse. You’ll have to work with them, to make sure that they act in response to your aids and take note to your seat. You will want to labor on bending them into your corners and getting round rings.

If not ready to exercise you pony that much yourself, get a good rider to work with your pony and if you are up to it you can get some riding coaching as well so you and your horse can become more skilled together!

In dressage, the rider uses his weight, legs and seat to steer the horse.  These are known as the AIDS.  To use the AIDS correctly, the rider’s body must be aligned and balanced.  From a side view, the ear, shoulder, hip and heel of the rider should be in a straight line at the halt.

For dressage coaching you should be working on a dressage arena, with an enclosed space where you can practice precise 20m circles.

The most typical kind of dressage is known as classical dressage.  It is about teaching the pony to carry himself properly thru conditioning, training, and time.

it takes about two years from getting on a horse to him being able to move correctly like this and hold himself properly each time, and it can only occur if the rider rides well.

It consumes years of training before this style and lots of other higher level movements can also be attempted!  Actually more data that might be conveyed here!

There are some very well known names in dressage.  For example, Jan threshold belongs to the world elite in dressage, and with the horse Briar 899 he has had great success on state as well as international arenas.  Jan has been to countless international championships, including the Olympics, WEG, and World Cups.

Rafael Soto is an Olympic silver medalist in dressage.  He has been described as possessing a remarkable talent for instruction which is awfully bizarre for Olympic medalists.

People who take dressage training are learning an equestrian discipline which are millennia old in.  A viable training program must have not only a seasoned and qualified instructor, but just as critical, are the schoolmaster’s capability and data, and the selection of well-schooled horses who permit riders of all levels to gain a deep understanding and feel for the movements and timing which of this demanding art.
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Cribbing is a compulsive behavior, which horses sometimes develop as a result of boredom, typically resulting from being left in a box much of the day with nothing to do. It consists of the horse firmly biting an object, arching its neck while pulling on the object, and sucking in air. It is believed that this triggers the release of chemicals (endorphins) in the brain, giving a pleasurable sensation. Cribbing is also known as ‘wind sucking’ or ‘crib biting’.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse’s teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

An interesting environment will normally prevent the development of cribbing, and help already cribbing horses to reduce the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, this in itself will seldom cure it completely. One needs to combine this action with treatment to physically prevent the horse from cribbing, in order to eventually break the habit.

One common approach is a cribbing strap (also known as cribbing collar), which fits around the neck and holds a small metal plate to the underside of the neck, making cribbing uncomfortable. Alternatively, one can use a special muzzle which fits over the head, preventing the horse from reaching objects with its teeth but still allowing it to feed through the metal grill. Painting fence rails with a specialty paint which gives them a bad taste (use only the veterinary approved paints) will discourage cribbing on them, as will adding a fencing wire (with electrical current) to the top of rails. Some horse owners have also reported improvements with certain medications (e.g. anti-depressants for the horse). Finally, there is a surgical solution which involves cutting certain neck muscles and nerves to make cribbing physically impossible, although this should be seen as a final option.

It is important to both address the base issue (intense boredom) and to try to physically discourage the horse using one of the above approaches. Trying just one or the other is seldom effective.

This is basic ground manners explained. In it’s simplest form, good manners means your horse doing as he is told. Your horse should be able to perform each task or movement safely regardless of ease or complexity. The very basics include not pushing, stepping on or otherwise endangering you whether intentionally or not. These may seem like simple annoyances, perhaps, but you can see that there is definitely potential for someone to be seriously hurt. Since horses outweigh you by a ton, literally, a misplaced hoof can break your foot. Better not to find out the hard way whether your equine insurance will cover you for this! If you first establish and then maintain an area of personal space, this can be avoided.

Allowing your horse to nuzzle into your pockets in the search for crunchy treats could land you with a nibble in a rather inconvenient place. These love nibbles will not feel as such when made by teeth as big as those of your horse. Horses in a herd treat each other differently than they must treat us. Often they will bite, nip and crowd each other, but they are somewhat more robust than we are.

Unfortunately, the space bubble lesson has been learned by many the hard way. My first, and subsequently the last, experience with the concept of crowding occurred when I bought my first horse years ago. My wonderful new four-legged friend liked to “help” me with the paddock cleaning. As I shovelled and filled the manure cart, he would come and put his nose into it. Then one day he actually lifted his front hoof and put it into the cart when I put a rake full of manure in. He knocked the cart over, which spooked him, which in turn spooked the other three horses in the paddock. There was a furore of hooves and tails a-flying and I was stuck amongst this. Thankfully I was not hurt, but this could have been a mild or even a serious disaster – and may have even necessitated a claim on my horse insurance.

This was in the basic learning curve time period for both of us. I was so amused at his trying to help me with my chores that I didn’t think about the potential consequences. I learned about the importance of safety manners that day. From that moment on I taught him how to respect my space when going about my tasks within the paddock and with the other horses. There was still plenty of time to be cute during our training time.

The three Ps of horse training success can be utilized to teach basic safety manners to your horse. The relationship which you have with any horse – be it your own or one you are training for someone else – is largely dependant on the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement.

Patience. Remember that your horse doesn’t yet know what is expected of him. You will go a long way in building trust by showing patience with your horse when showing him what to do, and letting him try and try again until he gets it. Allow your mind to become clear of stresses and strain before you start a training session. Take a deep breath and relax. It is part of the natural learning process for your horse to test the waters. He needs to check and see if what he thinks you want is correct. This can occur several times before the horse has confirmed his correct assessment of the task.

Persistence. Don’t simply give up when things don’t happen quickly. At first it is hard to communicate. You will both need to learn how to speak the same language! Stay with it and be consistent in your cues. Horses are very perceptive to even the slightest cue. Your horse will only cooperate when he has learned what the cue means.

Positive reinforcement. Whenever your horse does something correctly, show him a signal. The best reward for a horse may not be those tasty treats. They love to be released when they’ve done their job. Imagine the “whoa!” or “stop” cue. This is a pull on the bit within his mouth. When the horse exhibits the signs that he understands that you want him to stop, release the bit immediately. That tells him he’s doing the right thing.

Horses need to know their limits. How close can he stand to you before you feel crowded? Can he pull on the lead rope if he doesn’t want to go the way you are leading him? If he doesn’t feel inclined to pick up his foot, will you allow him to get away with this? For a horse this is not natural, even though to us it may seem like common sense. A correctly and carefully trained horse will forever be both a most pleasing companion and could also represent a lower liability when it comes to renewing your horse insurance policy.