Although you might think this is a straightforward thing to do – feed your horse – you would be shocked at the quantity of horse owners that do not appreciate the basics.  There is no real rule of thumb for feeding, as every horse’s dietary wants will differ depending on age, mass and amount of activity.

To start with, your horse naturally uses forage as a fundamental component of their diets. It is likely one of the Main requirements for a correctly functioning digestive system. When we speak of forage, we usually mean natural pasture and cut hay.

Mature horses ordinarily eat about 2 to 2.5 pct of their body mass in feed every day. So a one thousand pound horse will devour roughly 20 to 25 lbs of feed per day. Meaning quality feed, not low quality high fibre feed (that may interfere with correct digestion).

In a perfect pasture planet, your horse ought to eat no less than 1 percent of its body mass in hay/pasture forage every day. If your horse does not do much labour, they should do well on strictly forage, with no grain scattered in.  On the other hand, growing, in breed, or operational horses need dietary supplements in combination with forage – like grain or even a supplemental concentrate.  Visualize it this way, forages should supply at least one half or more of the full mass of the feed consumed daily for maximum growth and development.

Till you can feed a healthy “meal” to your horse, you need to be familiar with the nutrient content and quality of the forage. Once you know that, you can figure out the right quantities of each to fulfil nutrient requirements.

The very best resource, and the least expensive one for summer feed is your pasture.  And, in most cases good pasture by itself can offer every one of the nutritional needs your horse needs.  How can you determine how much pasture is necessary to provide for a horse?  Here’s a rough guideline to help you: (using a mass of 1,000 – 1,200 lbs)

Mare and foal 1.75 to 2 acres
Yearlings 1.5 to 2 acre
Weanlings 0.5 to 1 acre

Wintry weather feed needless to say will be cut hay, and again, high quality if you can provide it.  It needs to be cut early, be leafy and green in color and as free as achievable of dirt, moulds, weeds and stubble.  This feed is usually full of protein, minerals and vitamins.

Yes, you may want to use alfalfa hay, but be cautious about the higher protein contents should you be feeding to young developing horses, as it might contain an unnecessary amount of calcium in correlation to phosphorus.  Too much calcium isn’t good for rising horses.  If you are not sure about hay quality, have it checked.

If you are browsing for horses for sale or ponies for sale, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Hoof maintenance is a vital part of ensuring your horses health. It’s advisable to check your horses hooves daily, and minimum two times per week.  You should become familiar with what is usual and what isn’t, and will be able to to spot any issues that may be beginning.

Following this simple guide might assist you in your grooming routine.

1. As you approach your horse be sure the symmetry is relatively close, they do not have to be exactly equal, but very similar to being the same size and form.

2. Carefully examine for faults in the hoof wall and coronary band.  Raise up the hoof, run your palm over the outside of the wall to feel for impairments.  Use the exact technique for the coronary band and then squeeze it softly. Applying these two techniques will also point out tender areas and moisture holding areas.

3. Examine the sole. Examine the colour of every hoof. They should be the same in colouration.  A well delineated dark spot will indicate a bruise or damage.

4. Look at and compare the frogs.  The front hooves should be similar in size and shape and the same with the hooves at the rear. You should gently push each frog using your hoof pick, mostly, with the exception of desert areas, they should be slightly spongy.

5. If your horse is shod, clasp the horseshoe and see if it moves. Look for missing clinches, if the shoe is loose you may opt to take off the shoe before your horse misplaces it by itself and perhaps removes a section of hoof with it.

If you regularly check each hoof, you should avoid a great deal of issues by catching the problem before it worsens.

We recommend you include into your hoof cleaning routine a few quick steps. Use your pick working from heel to toe.  If packed solid you will probably be required to loosen it up a touch before it can be removed. Once the material is removed, look at all the parts of the hoof and make sure that there is not a bad odour as this is normally a obvious indicator of thrush.  also make sure there aren’t any rocks or stones lodged anywhere, even underneath the shoe.

All hooves should exhibit a natural sheen on the hoof wall.

If you see a smooth uniform surface free of cracks, circles, depressions, flares and a concave sole which touches the horseshoe, then you can be positive that your horses hooves are in good condition.

For more horse information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

When you care for your horse, it is vital to make provision for the winter months. Horses need to be able to tolerate the chilly weather and stay as healthy as possible. During the winter horses will have special requirements which you as the owner will have to address. It is crucial to get ready for winter ahead of time.

Horses are naturally tolerant to cool weather. In fact, horses cope with frosty weather a good deal better than hot weather. Regardless of this, there are some rudimentary things owners will need to do to make sure their horses remain healthy. You should make sure the horse doesn’t have any parasites, and has been fully vaccinated. The expenditure for doing these things will greatly pay off during the winter months, as the expenses of feeding your horse will be less.

You may also wish to consult your vet in setting up a health plan for your horse. Helping your horse prepare for winter will help it reduce the requirement to eat large amounts of food in order to sustain its weight. Your horse should never lose weight during the winter. Permitting your horse to gain a slight amount of weight will aid them through the colder months, as the additional fat will work as a cushion to supply the horse with energy if it becomes stressed. During the winter you will want to give your horse some additional calories.

The best protection for a horse throughout the winter is its actual winter coat. When it is allowed to grow, it will act as a warm blanket which will reduce the heat loss that the horse experiences in winter scenarios. Your horse’s coat is also smooth and will help brush off off snow and ice. If kept outside, you will want to ensure their coats grow long enough before winter.

To confirm the state of your horse, you will want to rub its ribs. A large winter coat can easily hide the fact the horse may be losing weight. Your horse should be lean enough so that you can feel the ribs, but not so lean that you can see them. Feel your horses ears. Do they feel cold? If so, this is a sign that the horse is cold.

As is the case with every warm blooded animal, your horse must maintain its body temperature to stay fit and well. It is crucial that they conserve heat through the winter, so you should make sure they’re prepared for the frost.

Visit the Horse and Pony Directory for more information and horses for sale

Living through the credit crunch is never easy, but when you have ponies and horses who rely on you for nourishment, shelter and medicine, every small amount saved helps.

It’s a well known fact that dozens of horses and ponies are abandoned every week, as owners struggle financially with the economy as it is, because of this there are currently many horses for sale.

Sara Tuppen founder of the Horse Refuge in Wittersham Kent, is well aware of looking after horses on a tight budget, and relies purely on donations to help keep over 40 rescued horses in good condition. According to her there are many ways which could help make owning a horse on a tight budget a little easier:

1. Many horses can live comfortably outside for the majority of the year, providing there’s nurishment, water and shelter available. If this is an acceptable option for your horse, it could reduce the cost of stabling considerably.

2. Removing shoes can be an easy way to reduce outlay. If not ridden regularly, and not ridden on rough surfaces, many horses will not need shoes.

3. Sharing your horse is a great way to cut (even halve!) costs, and helps to provide a cheaper introduction to horse ownership for someone else.

4. In many cases it is possible to get free stabling and occasionally hay and straw in return for chores. Mucking out, grooming, maintenance etc. are all ways which could save you money for a little work!

5. Vets bills are an unknown quantity but still have to be considered. If you’re budget is low, you may sometimes discover a lot of Vets will allow you to pay in instalments.

6. Most of us can also make lifestyle changes! It’s not all about finding ways to keep your horse more cheaply, you can do it too!

7. If achievable, horse owners can often club together to buy feed and straw in bulk, reducing the overall price and passing on savings to all.

8. Finally, you can look into placing your horse in a foster home, even as a family friend.

If you’re fortunate enough to be in a position to share, or even purchase a horse or pony, there are still many horses for sale and ponies for sale available.

A horse with colic is a situation that worries any horse lover. So what exactly is colic in horses? What signs should you keep an eye out for?

Colic in horses refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Generally horses will not handle abdominal pain very well. So in the event of any disturbance of gut functioning they will usually display signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and hoofing the ground. If the pain is greater the horse will stand up and lie down, and try rolling to get more comfortable.

The horse will start to sweat. In more severe cases it will get up and down and roll constantly.

What Should You Do?
Should you believe your horse is suffering from colic, you should call an equine vet immediately. The vet will be in a position to supply rapid pain relief and make a decision whether additional action is appropriate.

What should you do while you wait for the vet to arrive? Leading your horse for a walk sometimes helps. It may encourage his guts to work normally and surpress any pain. It could also prevent your horse lying down to roll. If he is lying on the floor quietly then you should let him stay lying down.

It was thought that horses could cause a twisted gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably not true. Though it is best to prevent him rolling around if you can. That way you can prevent your horse harming himself by banging itself on the stable walls. Of course take care that you don’t get injured yourself. Horses often lose all their manners if in pain.

There are several differing reasons as to why horses get colic. But often the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

What will the vet do to look into the issue? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope which will show them whether there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate provides a good idea of the seriousness of the discomfort and the seriousness of the problem. Usually a horse with a regular heart rate does not have a sever problem. However higher heart rates are not such a promising sign.

A really useful area of the examination is the examination of the rectum. By physically feeling the gut, the vet may be able to find the cause of the problem. Of course this is a highly skilled procedure, that is potentially dangerous for both parties. But for an experienced equine vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the nature of the issue. It may reveal an obstruction, or a swollen gut loop as a result of a twist or other intestinal issue.

It’s likely that in all but the simple cases the vet may inset a tube through the nose into the stomach. This may sound unpleasant but often may make your horse comfortable by releasing the built up pressure from the stomach. This process can also give the vet detailed feedback as to whether the stomach is emptying correctly.

On occasion the horse is in so much pain that it is impossible for the vet to examine him fully without first applying a dose of pain killer.

Only by collecting all of the information provided by a detailed examination is the vet able to make a tentative diagnosis. Even then it may not be possible to tell exactly what is going on.

Sometimes, after the first inspection, the horse needs surgery. Though more usually the vet will choose to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and review his condition after a couple of hours. Most examples show a quick improvement. But others will show no response to the treatment, or they will respond initially, then start displaying signs of discomfort again later.

Rather than having to bring the vet out multiple times, it is usually better to move these cases to a specialist equine practice so they can be monitored closely and surgery can be performed if necessary.

Conclusion
Fortunately the vast majority of cases respond quickly to medical treatment. However if surgery is necessary – it is vital to operate as soon as possible. The chance of a successful outcome is far greater if the operation is performed before too much damage has occurred.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist.

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

The more you learn about horses in general and your horses in particular, the better you will be at avoiding most problems and promptly treating the rest. Never be put off by the fact that you don’t know as much as other people. Everyone started out knowing nothing and nobody knows everything. The important thing is to continually learn.

Hoof maintenance is a crucial part of maintaining your horses health. Ideally you should check your horses hooves every day, and at least two to three times per week.  You should become familiar with what is usual and what is not, and will be able to to spot any problems that might be beginning.

Reading this simple guide will hopefully aid you in your daily grooming routiene.

1. Looking at your horse ensure the symmetry is close, however they don’t have to be exactly equal, but very similar to being the same size and shape.

2. Look carefully for faults in the wall and coronary band.  Pick up the hoof, run your palm over the outside of the wall to feel for impairments.  Use the same technique for the coronary band and then squeeze it softly. Using these two procedures will also highlight tender spots and moisture holding areas.

3. Inspect the sole. Examine the colour of every hoof. If correct they should be the same in colour.  A well defined dark spot should indicate a bruise or hole.

4. Examine and compare the frogs.  The front hooves should be the sae size and shape, the same applies to the hooves at the rear. You should lightly depress each frog with your hoof pick, in most areas, with the exception of desert areas, they should be slightly spongy.

5. If shod, hold the shoe and see if it is loose. Look for missing clinches, if the shoe is loose you may choose to remove it in case your horse misplaces it on its own and perhaps removes a piece of hoof as well.

If you regularly check each hoof, you will be able to avoid a lot of issues by noticing the issue before it’s too late.

It is recommended you work into your daily hoof cleaning a couple of simple steps. Use your hoof pick from heel to toe.  If it is tightly packed you will probably need to loosen it up a touch before it is taken off. Once the material has been taken out, look at all the regions of the hoof and be positive that there is not a smell as this is usually a obvious sign of thrush.  Be certain there are no pebbles or stones embedded anywhere, even beneath the shoe.

Your horses hooves should exhibit a natural gloss on the hoof wall.

If you see a smooth uniform surface free of cracks, circles, depressions, flares and a concave sole which meets the horseshoe, then you should be confident that the hooves are in great shape.

For more horse information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Horse provisions runs the full extent from grooming products to dietary supplements.

However there is an essential piece of equipment that you shouldn’t leave your barn, or your bag without.

Horse first aid pack may just be just the one thing that could save your horse’s life. You should understand from experience that it doesn’t matter how well thought out or planned an expedition might be, there are just some things that go awry. It’s not just paranoia, it is about preparation. Early preparation could help avert your ride from turning into a nightmare.

The kit should be stored in a container or bag that can keep moisture and muck out as these further the progression of bacteria. You would run the risk of exacerbating your horse’s infection if you used infected bandages. Places that sell horse goods hold things such as a plastic sealable bag. Apart from keeping tools, or grooming gear, they are also excellent for protecting first aid objects. Grocery stores sell tupperware food containers in different sizes. Aside from keeping possible contaminants out, you could also pick out one that could fit in your saddlebag.

Among the things that you should include in your first aid kit, a disinfectant most likely is the most helpful in most injuries. From small grazes and abrasions to wounds, disinfectants are vital cleansers. Just stick to the manufacturers’ instructions in particular when using industrialized grades as extreme use could dehydrate your horse’s skin. Antiseptic scrubs and wipes become useful for disinfecting cuts in the nonexistence of water. These are tremendous substitutes for disinfectants as they cleanse cuts with equal efficiency, but minus the need for water.

Creams or injury powders are also worthy additions to your gear. They can stop the entry of additional bacteria within the wound and speed up the curing procedure. But, make sure to use ointments, powders, and creams that have been permitted by your equine vet.

A fly spray applied or sprayed on the injury reduces further infection or infection risks considerably. Wound coverings come in sterile unique packs and they are beneficial for covering wounds and furthering the healing process. There should be a stock of bandages in your gear, or at least two with a wide breadth. They are good for stabilizing fractures, splints, and fixing pads over bleedings. Talking of bleeding, cotton wool and gauze are key for stopping excess bleeding. Salts are useful for soaking unhealthy hooves and legs.

Apart from these medications, there are particular supplies which you can buy from equine shops and common pharmacies. Petroleum jellies are beneficial for abrasion, less significant burns, and skin irritations.

A thermometer is a useful addition to your horse supplies. Proficient riders recommend you hold your thermometers clipped to your horses tail to avoid loss. Scissors, tweezers, and forceps are all items you shouldn’t forget in your equine forst aid pack. Aside from cutting bandages, they are also perfect for removing splinters and stones wedged in horses’ hooves.

Finally, remember these first aid packs are just for giving your horse assistance in emergencies before the vet arrives. These are just for preventative measures, it is still important to phone a vet after applying first aid.

For more horse information and horses for sale, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory

When you care for your horse, it is essential to make arrangements for the winter months. Horses need to be able to tolerate the chilly climate and stay as healthy as possible. During the winter horses will have special requirements which you as the owner will have to take in hand. It is imperative to organize for winter ahead of time.

Horses are naturally tolerant to chilly conditions. In fact, horses cope with icy conditions much better than hot weather. Regardless of this, there are some rudimentary things owners will need to do to make sure their horses remain healthy. Be sure the horse doesn’t have any fleas, and has been fully vaccinated. The costs for doing these things will significantly pay off during the winter months, as the expenses of feeding your horse will be lower.

You may also wish to consult your vet in arranging up a health plan to care for your horses. Preparing your horse for cold weather will help it lower the need to eat greater amounts of food in order to retain its weight. Your horse shouldn’t lose any weight during the colder months. Allowing your horse to gain a slight amount of weight will help them during the winter months, as the additional fat will act as a guard to provide the horse with energy if it becomes stressed. Through the winter you should give your horse some additional calories.

Probably the most effective protection for a horse in the winter is its actual winter coat. If allowed to grow, it will act as a warm jumper which will lessen the loss of heat that the horse experiences in cold environments. A horse’s coat is also glossy and will help brush off off snow and ice. If you keep your horses outside, you must ensure their coats grow long enough before the cold weather starts.

To confirm the condition of your horse, you will want to feel its ribs. A longer coat may indeed hide the fact that your horse has lost weight Your horse should be lean enough so that you can feel the ribs, but not so lean that you can see them. Feel your horses ears. Are they cold? If this is the case, your horse is cold.

Like all animals which are warm-blooded, horses must maintain their body temperature in order to survive. It is vital that they retain heat throughout the winter, so you must make sure they’re ready for the frost.

Visit the Horse and Pony Directory for more information and horses for sale

Cribbing is a compulsive behavior, which horses sometimes develop as a result of boredom, typically resulting from being left in a box much of the day with nothing to do. It consists of the horse firmly biting an object, arching its neck while pulling on the object, and sucking in air. It is believed that this triggers the release of chemicals (endorphins) in the brain, giving a pleasurable sensation. Cribbing is also known as ‘wind sucking’ or ‘crib biting’.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse’s teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

An interesting environment will normally prevent the development of cribbing, and help already cribbing horses to reduce the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, this in itself will seldom cure it completely. One needs to combine this action with treatment to physically prevent the horse from cribbing, in order to eventually break the habit.

One common approach is a cribbing strap (also known as cribbing collar), which fits around the neck and holds a small metal plate to the underside of the neck, making cribbing uncomfortable. Alternatively, one can use a special muzzle which fits over the head, preventing the horse from reaching objects with its teeth but still allowing it to feed through the metal grill. Painting fence rails with a specialty paint which gives them a bad taste (use only the veterinary approved paints) will discourage cribbing on them, as will adding a fencing wire (with electrical current) to the top of rails. Some horse owners have also reported improvements with certain medications (e.g. anti-depressants for the horse). Finally, there is a surgical solution which involves cutting certain neck muscles and nerves to make cribbing physically impossible, although this should be seen as a final option.

It is important to both address the base issue (intense boredom) and to try to physically discourage the horse using one of the above approaches. Trying just one or the other is seldom effective.