Would you trust your children to someone else while you traveled all the way across the country? Your horse is part of your family too, so why would you be less careful with them? Purchasing a horse lorry allows you to travel with your horse, giving you that same peace of mind.

Hiring someone to transport your horse means putting their future in the hands of someone you barely know. Hired horse lorry drivers may know horses, but they don’t know this horse the way you do. No one is going totake care of them the way that you will, and more importantly, no one is going to know how to handle them in case of an emergency the way you do.

One of the most established Horsebox manufacturers in the UK is Empire Horseboxes Ltd. They maintain and construct new Horseboxes, can convert old horseboxes and have a large range of refurbished used horseboxes. Take a look at Horseboxes for Sale now.

There are hundreds of things that could happen to your horse while they’re being transported when you’re not with them. What would you do if your horse was injured in the hired horse lorry? Would a hired driver be able to calm them and administer the proper emergency treatment? Would you be comfortable letting someone else put your horse down if they couldn’t be helped?

Of course not. Anyone who loves their horse would need to be there. That’s the reason many horse owners choose to invest in their own horse lorry.

For a good selection of New and Used Luxury Horse Boxes in the UK please visit Horseboxes for Sale now.

Buying a good horse lorry isn’t as difficult, or as incompatible with your budget, as most people believe. You’re not limited in the number of dealers that carry well known brand names like Equitrek. There are also a number of dealers that specialize in selling high quality pre-owned lorries to horse owners who want the best for their horse but can’t afford the expense of a new one.

The lorry should be large enough to allow him to brace his legs and swing his neck to keep from being knocked into the walls. It should not, however, allow them to spin around or slam his hooves into the door with force. If he manages to kick down the door or wrap himself in his tether you could have a problem.

Horses are designed to run in the wild, not ride around in a horse lorry. A properly ventilated horse lorry is vital if you want your horse to arrive at their destination in fit, fighting form (metaphorically speaking). It would be prudent to choose one with padding on the walls to brace their stumble if you brake suddenly or go off the pavement.Horses aren’t as lucky as barn cats; a high speed impact into the sides of the lorry would leave them with bumps and bruises for quite a while.Most horses don’t enjoy being put in a tight and enclosed area to travel. Any lorry you choose needs to be well ventilated if you want your horse to arrive in peak condition. It’s a good idea to find one with padded sides, in case they stumble.Your average barn cat would probably fare just fine after bouncing off the walls of the lorry, but your much heavier horse wouldn’t be nearly as lucky.

Horses are some of the best traveling companions you could hope for. Purchasing your own horse lorry allows you to enjoy your horse’s companionship while you’re out on the road.

This very brief article gives you a very quick overview into how to transport your Horses with their comfort in mind. Click on the link to view a large range of Horse Lorries For Sale in the UK and Europe from Empire Horseboxes Ltd.

A horse with colic is a situation that worries any horse lover. So what exactly is colic in horses? What signs should you keep an eye out for?

Colic in horses refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Generally horses will not handle abdominal pain very well. So in the event of any disturbance of gut functioning they will usually display signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and hoofing the ground. If the pain is greater the horse will stand up and lie down, and try rolling to get more comfortable.

The horse will start to sweat. In more severe cases it will get up and down and roll constantly.

What Should You Do?
Should you believe your horse is suffering from colic, you should call an equine vet immediately. The vet will be in a position to supply rapid pain relief and make a decision whether additional action is appropriate.

What should you do while you wait for the vet to arrive? Leading your horse for a walk sometimes helps. It may encourage his guts to work normally and surpress any pain. It could also prevent your horse lying down to roll. If he is lying on the floor quietly then you should let him stay lying down.

It was thought that horses could cause a twisted gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably not true. Though it is best to prevent him rolling around if you can. That way you can prevent your horse harming himself by banging itself on the stable walls. Of course take care that you don’t get injured yourself. Horses often lose all their manners if in pain.

There are several differing reasons as to why horses get colic. But often the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

What will the vet do to look into the issue? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope which will show them whether there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate provides a good idea of the seriousness of the discomfort and the seriousness of the problem. Usually a horse with a regular heart rate does not have a sever problem. However higher heart rates are not such a promising sign.

A really useful area of the examination is the examination of the rectum. By physically feeling the gut, the vet may be able to find the cause of the problem. Of course this is a highly skilled procedure, that is potentially dangerous for both parties. But for an experienced equine vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the nature of the issue. It may reveal an obstruction, or a swollen gut loop as a result of a twist or other intestinal issue.

It’s likely that in all but the simple cases the vet may inset a tube through the nose into the stomach. This may sound unpleasant but often may make your horse comfortable by releasing the built up pressure from the stomach. This process can also give the vet detailed feedback as to whether the stomach is emptying correctly.

On occasion the horse is in so much pain that it is impossible for the vet to examine him fully without first applying a dose of pain killer.

Only by collecting all of the information provided by a detailed examination is the vet able to make a tentative diagnosis. Even then it may not be possible to tell exactly what is going on.

Sometimes, after the first inspection, the horse needs surgery. Though more usually the vet will choose to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and review his condition after a couple of hours. Most examples show a quick improvement. But others will show no response to the treatment, or they will respond initially, then start displaying signs of discomfort again later.

Rather than having to bring the vet out multiple times, it is usually better to move these cases to a specialist equine practice so they can be monitored closely and surgery can be performed if necessary.

Conclusion
Fortunately the vast majority of cases respond quickly to medical treatment. However if surgery is necessary – it is vital to operate as soon as possible. The chance of a successful outcome is far greater if the operation is performed before too much damage has occurred.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Below is a brief description of just three simple groundwork exercises you can perform with your own horse or a horse you are training. Ground exercises are a vital part of getting to know each other and of building trust between you and the horse. Good groundwork sets the stage for all future training. The importance of safety and maintaining your personal space bubble should not be taken lightly.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These are the 3 P’s of basic horse training that will serve you well no matter what level you are training or what you might be training for in the future.

1. Groom your horse.

This is a perfect place to start before practising more advanced exercises with your horse. Your horse will get to know you during this quality time together, and vice verse. Standing beside your horse, brush his back and neck. It is not unusual for the horse to bring his teeth around to you for a little love bite. While horses do this to each other all the time, naturally they cannot do it to humans. Discourage this by simply waving a hand, or by pushing his head back straight. Those massive teeth could really hurt – so be sure to make it clear from the very start that this is not acceptable. Use patience and keep calm. He’ll get the idea and will cooperate. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse.

Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Step forward and walk slowly. He should not try to go ahead of you but should remain at your right side. He may try to do this and you should walk around in a circle to your left. Do this as many times as necessary. Be persistent. By circling to your left you will stay just ahead of him as it should be. If, on the other hand, your horse doesn’t want to walk with you, stand slightly behind at his shoulder facing the same direction. Hold the rope close to his chin and push forward. When he takes a little step, praise and positive reinforcement is in order. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. For your safety, never wrap the lead rope around any part of you. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.

This is a fantastic exercise which the vast majority of horse owners and certainly all horse trainers will use to teach their horse about what is expected. Lunging will teach many of the skills and commands, or cues, your horse will need to know when you’re ready to work him under saddle.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. This will be 30 ft long (approximately 10m), much longer than the short lead rope you use for the lead exercise.

Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Start by facing the horse’s left side while holding the lunge line. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along.

Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Now let out the rope as you follow behind the horse to the left side, making a kissing sound as you do so. He’ll begin to associate that sound with “move forward”. Just hold the whip slightly behind the horse’s hindquarters as you are turning and the horse is moving in a circle around you. The whip is not for hitting. Simply by waving it about a little the horse should pay attention to you.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

This is the perfect time to teach your horse to understand “whoa”. Say the word “whoooaaa” in a low and calm voice. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. When he stops, give him lots of praise and a little neck rub. You will help him remember what to do through this positive reinforcement.

Changing your position now will allow you to lunge your horse in an anti-clockwise manner. It’s done in the same way, but with the lead clipped to the right side of the halter and the lunge whip in the left hand.

These are just a few basic exercises for you to get started with hands-on horse training. Always remember the size and sheer power of the horse. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

When it’s just you and your horse travelling the countryside, you’re looking for a twofold deal when you’re searching for horseboxes for sale. You need a horsebox that’s just right for your horse and still fits your budget. Learn how you can locate great deals, when you’re looking for horseboxes both on and off the web.

The most important thing when you’re shopping horseboxes for sale isn’t the price. You want to make sure the quality of the horsebox is going to offer your horse a smooth, safe ride. The best way to find a quality horsebox is to buy from the right dealer.

One of the most established Horsebox builders in the UK is Empire Horseboxes Ltd. They maintain and construct new Horseboxes, can convert old horseboxes and have an impressive range of reconditioned used horseboxes. Check out Horse Lorries For Sale now.

The best place to look for horseboxes for sale is a seller who works with horses themselves. When you’re shopping on the web, it’s especially important to choose carefully when you’re picking your provider. A seller experienced with all aspects of horse care is in the best position to give you recommendations when it comes to your horsebox.

An experienced horseman is less likely to provide poor quality equipment and therefore provides a certain level of comfort to your purchase decision. You don’t have to know anything about horseboxes to sell horseboxes online. A good dealer should know the ins and outs of traveling with horses along with the finer details of choosing horseboxes.

It can be hard to resist the temptation to make a decision between horseboxes for sale purely based on price. The cost of choosing an inexpensive but poor quality horsebox can rise rapidly over the long run. Paying for a high quality model up front is much more cost effective than trying to compensate for the long term consequences.

For a good selection of New and Used Luxury Horse Boxes in the UK please visit Horseboxes for Sale now.

When you’ve found a high quality model it’s time to start considering price when you’re comparing horseboxes for sale. The best way to get a great deal on horseboxes is to shop around. There are different prices and specials offered by different dealers at different times. Five or six different companies can offer five or six different pricing options to help you save hundreds of pounds on your horsebox.

When comparing horseboxes for sale, it’s important to consider their width and length carefully. A smaller horsebox can be a better choice than a large one. A large horsebox is more expensive and gives your horse more room to move around. Horses aren’t bred to be travelers, and they don’t enjoy traveling in motor vehicles the way dogs do. Less confinement can allow them to panic during transport and cause themselves harm.

If you’re concerned about your budget, consider shopping for a used horsebox rather than a new one. A majority of sellers offering horseboxes for sale offer pre-owned horseboxes as well. A pre-owned horsebox in good condition will provide a perfectly safe traveling environment for your horse.

Keeping your horse safe while you’re traveling requires a safe place for him to travel. With a little bit of careful hunting through horseboxes for sale you should be in an excellent position to give your horse the high quality, cost efficient traveling quarters he deserves.

This short article gives you a very quick overview into how to transport your Horses or Ponies with their comfort in mind. Click on the link to view a large range of Horse Lorries For Sale in the UK and Europe from Empire Horseboxes Ltd.

When you are deciding on horse riding equipment for the 1st time you will almost certainly wish to stick to the basics. Buying only what you need when you are starting is a good idea as you’ll soon learn what is essential as your interest for the sport develops Nonetheless getting poor supplies may stop you from learning to ride properly so always purchase the best horse riding supplies.

Helmets

Helmets are essential horse riding safety equipment. The proper kind of helmet will keep you protected in the event of a fall. In no way skimp on your helmet or get something second- hand, always buy the best. Take an individual more experienced along if you are uncertain about choosing a helmet that fits you correctly.

Boots

Besides your helmet the type of boots that you select is likely the most important part of your horse riding gear. You want boots that fit you comfortably and also look great. The kind of horse riding boots that you pick depends largely on what type of riding that you might be doing. Should you be only into riding for fun then a low cut boot could be the best to buy for your horse riding gear. To make taking your boots off easier I prefer a boot that has a back zipper. Your boot ought to be a snug fit but at the same time it should also be comfortable.

If you are intending to ride in shows thenyou’ll need tall boots. This piece of horse ridingsupplies not only looks great it also helps tokeep your leg position nice and stable. You might find that these are probablythe most comfortable type of boots to have.

Glasses

Despite the fact that glasses might not seem like the 1st thing you need to think about when getting horse riding gear, the proper type of eyewear is crucial. It is advisable to ensure that you can see correctly while riding. Many people opt for contacts if they normally wear glasses. This is specially true for cold months riding as glasses usually fog up quite a bit while in the cold air.

Yet should you opt for to use glasses then safety glass in your frames are a good choice as part of your horse riding equipment. This can avoid terrible accidents that can come about if your glasses should break. Sunglasses are also something you should ponder when riding in the summer as the glare you may encounter can be very distracting.

Please stop by Dressage Saddles for Sale for much further details about horse gear at http://dressagesaddlesforsale.com, thank you.

Morgan horses are a truly versatile breed, which performs well across many equestrian disciplines. The Morgan is regarded as one of the first breeds of horse developed in the United States, and its origins can be traced back to the original stallion named Figure (a horse who then went on to be called Justin Morgan after its owner).

Figure – Justin Morgan
Figure, the sire that all Morgan horses can be traced back to, was born in 1789, in Massachusetts. It is thought he stood just at pony height, roughly 14hh, and was well known for his ability to pass down hereditary qualities including his conformation, presence and agility, making him a superb choice to start the breed. He lived to the age of 32, and during his life changed his name to ‘Justin Morgan’ which is why the breed is frequently called ‘The Justin Morgan Horse’.

Features of a Morgan Horse
All Morgan horses come from a single breed standard, regardless of bloodline etc. They are of a refined build, with good strength in the legs, a stocky yet compact body, a neckline which is noticeably arched and set back shoulders. They are very expressive in character, which is exaggerated by large eyes.

Height in Morgan horses can vary, but usually ranges from roughly 14.1hh up to 15.2hh though there are some examples which are above and below these limits. Though they are technically regarded as being horses, if a Morgan horse is under 14.2hh it can be classed, and entered as a Pony in equestrian shows and competitions.

Morgan horses can be bred in a variety of different colourings, though they are usually to be found in black, chestnut and bay.

Morgan Horses Today
The Morgan horse is a noticeably versatile breed and they often compete in various disciplines across the equestrian sphere, including eventing, dressage and showjumping. They are so popular, they also have there own show circuit, including a National Morgan Horse competition.

Horse riders will of course see saddle training as the ultimate goal, but first it’s necessary to complete the groundwork. You will need to take your horse from trailer or barn to the tack area, tack up, and then you’ll ride. Not much point in teaching your horse point B, the saddle riding part, if there’s no way to get there from point A is there?. Your horse will need to cooperate with you so the two of you can act as a team. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

With the primary objective of safety in mind, your horse needs to learn what is acceptable behaviour. Pulling against the lead rope, for example, is natural behaviour for a horse which you will need to teach him not to do. Whoever is leading needs to be secure that their personal space will not be invaded by the horse. Many an accident has occurred as a direct result of inattention to the importance of teaching your horse basic safety manners before attempting anything more advanced. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

The three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – come into play when leading your horse. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

Ideally you need to begin lead training with your horse when he is still a foal. Don’t leave it too late to begin teaching ground manners – a very young horse doesn’t need to know about saddles and riding yet, so you have time to focus on these important basics. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you’re lucky enough to have the dam on site, the foal will copy the behaviours of the dam. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. Young horses naturally learn from the older ones in the herd. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They watch the other horses to learn these things. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Your student will be watching, as they do notice everything that happens around them, particularly if it involves other horses in their own herd.

A good place to start is to lead a more experienced horse along with the foal; lead them simultaneously with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. This is done by simply towing the student horse behind using a longer lead rope. It makes sense in fact to teach the lead in this way, as it’s natural for a young horse to follow an elders lead.

You will need to fall back only on the three Ps of horse training in the absence of other horses to help the youngster learn what to do. It will still be viable, but may take a bit longer for your horse to understand what you’d like him to do.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells him that he’s doing things right.

After you have him walking with you in straight lines with success, try turning slightly to the left, maintaining the space bubble between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Remember to release pressure on the lead rope and reward him every time he shows a step in the right direction.

Lead training requires large reserves of patience. Stick with it and you’ll soon see big improvements. Do a little work every day if you can and this will put you closer to the day you can finally saddle up for a ride.

Nicholas Fyffe Dressage Training

The ancient ability of dressage coaching is seemingly more and more  fashionable in America at the moment. It possesses several advantages for serious riders. For a start it can be practiced in a comparatively small place and generally urban residents do not possess trouble-free admittance to large spaces. A further lure of the activity is its terrific aesthetic appeal and the rewards of achieving tight harmony with an equine partner.

In the lower levels of dressage, it can be relatively easy to train a horse. You’ll have to work with them, to make sure that they act in response to your aids and take note to your seat. You will want to labor on bending them into your corners and getting round rings.

If not ready to exercise you pony that much yourself, get a good rider to work with your pony and if you are up to it you can get some riding coaching as well so you and your horse can become more skilled together!

In dressage, the rider uses his weight, legs and seat to steer the horse.  These are known as the AIDS.  To use the AIDS correctly, the rider’s body must be aligned and balanced.  From a side view, the ear, shoulder, hip and heel of the rider should be in a straight line at the halt.

For dressage coaching you should be working on a dressage arena, with an enclosed space where you can practice precise 20m circles.

The most typical kind of dressage is known as classical dressage.  It is about teaching the pony to carry himself properly thru conditioning, training, and time.

it takes about two years from getting on a horse to him being able to move correctly like this and hold himself properly each time, and it can only occur if the rider rides well.

It consumes years of training before this style and lots of other higher level movements can also be attempted!  Actually more data that might be conveyed here!

There are some very well known names in dressage.  For example, Jan threshold belongs to the world elite in dressage, and with the horse Briar 899 he has had great success on state as well as international arenas.  Jan has been to countless international championships, including the Olympics, WEG, and World Cups.

Rafael Soto is an Olympic silver medalist in dressage.  He has been described as possessing a remarkable talent for instruction which is awfully bizarre for Olympic medalists.

People who take dressage training are learning an equestrian discipline which are millennia old in.  A viable training program must have not only a seasoned and qualified instructor, but just as critical, are the schoolmaster’s capability and data, and the selection of well-schooled horses who permit riders of all levels to gain a deep understanding and feel for the movements and timing which of this demanding art.
.

As implied by the name. This breeds roots can be traced from Belgium. Back in the medieval times, the center of Western Europe became well-known for the large black horses known as “Flemish”. These horses are the ones which carried the armour-clad knights to war. Only the fittest, largest and most powerful were selected and trained as “chargers” and “destriers”. It is from this stock that other draft breeds drew for genetic material.  At the heart of this area, Belgium was established as a country. The stallions of the region, in order to meet the demand for larger horses were exported to many parts of Europe to work in agricultural and industrial settings.

Because Belgium was the supply upon which other countries relied for such large stock animals, all that was left was for the country to establish the breed and increase the strength of the genetic material already at hand. The breed was refined by the Belgiun government who set up a national show, the winners of which would compete in the National Show in Brussels. The country’s inspection committee selected from the national the finest stallions for public services. These efforts resulted in the speedy improvement of the fixed breed type and the Belgian horse was then establised as a national treasure.

When the Belgian was first brought into the States, they were slated for being “too thick, too low-headed, straight shouldered, and round-boned”. However, the Belgian horse soon settled in with American farmers due to their good dispositions, willingness to work hard and the fact that they were easy to maintain. So the Belgian remained, and American breeders set out to keep what was right and fix what was “wrong”. This outcome is considered to be one of the most influential successes in the animal breeding world. American Belgian’s possess strong feet, a solid middle, good muscle as well as a good temperament. The breed is a hard worker, ships well and is easy to maintain. American breeders very simply developed a horse with cleaner lines, more slope in the shoulders and pasterns, and a more elegant look around the head and neck.

Description
As far as color, whilst the initial Belgians to be brought into to the States were a wide mix, about half were bay and bay-brown. However, there was really no particular color which was a defining characteristic. Through breeding, shown by American preference, the ideal for a Belgian in America today is a chestnut or sorrel with a snow-white mane and tail, a white stripe on the face, and four white socks. You can, in other areas of the world find a large variety of different colours.

With regards to height, Belgian horses are usually 16 hands (162.5 centimeters, or 64 inches) at the shoulder, but can exceed 18 hands (183 cm or 72 inches) to the shoulder. US Belgian horses are more often seen with a noticeably large head, larger hind-quarters and compact, muscular legs.

The average weight is 1600 to 2000 pounds (113.6 to 142 stones), but stallions can be in excess of 2400 pounds (170.4 stones).

For more information and horses for sale, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist.

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

The more you learn about horses in general and your horses in particular, the better you will be at avoiding most problems and promptly treating the rest. Never be put off by the fact that you don’t know as much as other people. Everyone started out knowing nothing and nobody knows everything. The important thing is to continually learn.