Horse provisions runs the full extent from grooming products to dietary supplements.

However there is an essential piece of equipment that you shouldn’t leave your barn, or your bag without.

Horse first aid pack may just be just the one thing that could save your horse’s life. You should understand from experience that it doesn’t matter how well thought out or planned an expedition might be, there are just some things that go awry. It’s not just paranoia, it is about preparation. Early preparation could help avert your ride from turning into a nightmare.

The kit should be stored in a container or bag that can keep moisture and muck out as these further the progression of bacteria. You would run the risk of exacerbating your horse’s infection if you used infected bandages. Places that sell horse goods hold things such as a plastic sealable bag. Apart from keeping tools, or grooming gear, they are also excellent for protecting first aid objects. Grocery stores sell tupperware food containers in different sizes. Aside from keeping possible contaminants out, you could also pick out one that could fit in your saddlebag.

Among the things that you should include in your first aid kit, a disinfectant most likely is the most helpful in most injuries. From small grazes and abrasions to wounds, disinfectants are vital cleansers. Just stick to the manufacturers’ instructions in particular when using industrialized grades as extreme use could dehydrate your horse’s skin. Antiseptic scrubs and wipes become useful for disinfecting cuts in the nonexistence of water. These are tremendous substitutes for disinfectants as they cleanse cuts with equal efficiency, but minus the need for water.

Creams or injury powders are also worthy additions to your gear. They can stop the entry of additional bacteria within the wound and speed up the curing procedure. But, make sure to use ointments, powders, and creams that have been permitted by your equine vet.

A fly spray applied or sprayed on the injury reduces further infection or infection risks considerably. Wound coverings come in sterile unique packs and they are beneficial for covering wounds and furthering the healing process. There should be a stock of bandages in your gear, or at least two with a wide breadth. They are good for stabilizing fractures, splints, and fixing pads over bleedings. Talking of bleeding, cotton wool and gauze are key for stopping excess bleeding. Salts are useful for soaking unhealthy hooves and legs.

Apart from these medications, there are particular supplies which you can buy from equine shops and common pharmacies. Petroleum jellies are beneficial for abrasion, less significant burns, and skin irritations.

A thermometer is a useful addition to your horse supplies. Proficient riders recommend you hold your thermometers clipped to your horses tail to avoid loss. Scissors, tweezers, and forceps are all items you shouldn’t forget in your equine forst aid pack. Aside from cutting bandages, they are also perfect for removing splinters and stones wedged in horses’ hooves.

Finally, remember these first aid packs are just for giving your horse assistance in emergencies before the vet arrives. These are just for preventative measures, it is still important to phone a vet after applying first aid.

For more horse information and horses for sale, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory

When you care for your horse, it is essential to make arrangements for the winter months. Horses need to be able to tolerate the chilly climate and stay as healthy as possible. During the winter horses will have special requirements which you as the owner will have to take in hand. It is imperative to organize for winter ahead of time.

Horses are naturally tolerant to chilly conditions. In fact, horses cope with icy conditions much better than hot weather. Regardless of this, there are some rudimentary things owners will need to do to make sure their horses remain healthy. Be sure the horse doesn’t have any fleas, and has been fully vaccinated. The costs for doing these things will significantly pay off during the winter months, as the expenses of feeding your horse will be lower.

You may also wish to consult your vet in arranging up a health plan to care for your horses. Preparing your horse for cold weather will help it lower the need to eat greater amounts of food in order to retain its weight. Your horse shouldn’t lose any weight during the colder months. Allowing your horse to gain a slight amount of weight will help them during the winter months, as the additional fat will act as a guard to provide the horse with energy if it becomes stressed. Through the winter you should give your horse some additional calories.

Probably the most effective protection for a horse in the winter is its actual winter coat. If allowed to grow, it will act as a warm jumper which will lessen the loss of heat that the horse experiences in cold environments. A horse’s coat is also glossy and will help brush off off snow and ice. If you keep your horses outside, you must ensure their coats grow long enough before the cold weather starts.

To confirm the condition of your horse, you will want to feel its ribs. A longer coat may indeed hide the fact that your horse has lost weight Your horse should be lean enough so that you can feel the ribs, but not so lean that you can see them. Feel your horses ears. Are they cold? If this is the case, your horse is cold.

Like all animals which are warm-blooded, horses must maintain their body temperature in order to survive. It is vital that they retain heat throughout the winter, so you must make sure they’re ready for the frost.

Visit the Horse and Pony Directory for more information and horses for sale

Cribbing is a compulsive behavior, which horses sometimes develop as a result of boredom, typically resulting from being left in a box much of the day with nothing to do. It consists of the horse firmly biting an object, arching its neck while pulling on the object, and sucking in air. It is believed that this triggers the release of chemicals (endorphins) in the brain, giving a pleasurable sensation. Cribbing is also known as ‘wind sucking’ or ‘crib biting’.

Horse cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse’s teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

An interesting environment will normally prevent the development of cribbing, and help already cribbing horses to reduce the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, this in itself will seldom cure it completely. One needs to combine this action with treatment to physically prevent the horse from cribbing, in order to eventually break the habit.

One common approach is a cribbing strap (also known as cribbing collar), which fits around the neck and holds a small metal plate to the underside of the neck, making cribbing uncomfortable. Alternatively, one can use a special muzzle which fits over the head, preventing the horse from reaching objects with its teeth but still allowing it to feed through the metal grill. Painting fence rails with a specialty paint which gives them a bad taste (use only the veterinary approved paints) will discourage cribbing on them, as will adding a fencing wire (with electrical current) to the top of rails. Some horse owners have also reported improvements with certain medications (e.g. anti-depressants for the horse). Finally, there is a surgical solution which involves cutting certain neck muscles and nerves to make cribbing physically impossible, although this should be seen as a final option.

It is important to both address the base issue (intense boredom) and to try to physically discourage the horse using one of the above approaches. Trying just one or the other is seldom effective.

Arabs (Arabian horses) can be traced back 2000 years to the Arabian Peninsula.

Strength, beauty and endurance are typical traits of this breed of horse. Arabian horses have been researched, and concluded to be one of the most ancient breeds of horse.

The Bedouins were a nomadic people who are given credit for first taming the Arabian horse. The Bedouins took pride in the purity of the Arabian breed and could trace the history of every horse they owned. During these times they needed a rapid, strong and reliable horse. It was important that it could withstand the harsh desert environment. Regional battles were going on between the Bedouin tribes, so horses were used to take them to war.

The Bedouins soon gained a reputation for breeding some of the most beautiful horses ever seen. Many people would trade horses with them, and they would get together and share the lineages of the horses which were traded. There are numerous strains of Arab horses. These horses have a common ancestor and look. Some of these are Hadban, Kuhaylan, and Dahman.

The Arabian horse (Arab) is possibly the most popular breed known. Their heads are shaped like wedges, and they have large eyes and a small muzzle. Arabian horses which have a concave shaped nose are highly prized. An Arabian horse should have an arched neckline, with lean muscular legs. Their coats should have a sheen, often referred to as being silk-like. As they do not have a good bascule Arabian breeds are not frequent competitors at show jumping meets.

Most Arabian horses have a coat which is grey or brown, and some horses also have black coats. It is thought Arabs with dark black coats would absorb the desert heat so were considered a rarity. Such is the purity of the Arabian horse gene, it is frequently used in accentuating the features of other breeds. Arabian horses are very well mannered, an attribute breeders find very attractive.

Arabian horses have been used in professional horse competitions for a long time, and Arabian horse games are being held every year in which the horses and their owners can compete with each other.

For more information, Arabian Horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory

This is basic ground manners explained. In it’s simplest form, good manners means your horse doing as he is told. Your horse should be able to perform each task or movement safely regardless of ease or complexity. The very basics include not pushing, stepping on or otherwise endangering you whether intentionally or not. These may seem like simple annoyances, perhaps, but you can see that there is definitely potential for someone to be seriously hurt. Since horses outweigh you by a ton, literally, a misplaced hoof can break your foot. Better not to find out the hard way whether your equine insurance will cover you for this! If you first establish and then maintain an area of personal space, this can be avoided.

Allowing your horse to nuzzle into your pockets in the search for crunchy treats could land you with a nibble in a rather inconvenient place. These love nibbles will not feel as such when made by teeth as big as those of your horse. Horses in a herd treat each other differently than they must treat us. Often they will bite, nip and crowd each other, but they are somewhat more robust than we are.

Unfortunately, the space bubble lesson has been learned by many the hard way. My first, and subsequently the last, experience with the concept of crowding occurred when I bought my first horse years ago. My wonderful new four-legged friend liked to “help” me with the paddock cleaning. As I shovelled and filled the manure cart, he would come and put his nose into it. Then one day he actually lifted his front hoof and put it into the cart when I put a rake full of manure in. He knocked the cart over, which spooked him, which in turn spooked the other three horses in the paddock. There was a furore of hooves and tails a-flying and I was stuck amongst this. Thankfully I was not hurt, but this could have been a mild or even a serious disaster – and may have even necessitated a claim on my horse insurance.

This was in the basic learning curve time period for both of us. I was so amused at his trying to help me with my chores that I didn’t think about the potential consequences. I learned about the importance of safety manners that day. From that moment on I taught him how to respect my space when going about my tasks within the paddock and with the other horses. There was still plenty of time to be cute during our training time.

The three Ps of horse training success can be utilized to teach basic safety manners to your horse. The relationship which you have with any horse – be it your own or one you are training for someone else – is largely dependant on the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement.

Patience. Remember that your horse doesn’t yet know what is expected of him. You will go a long way in building trust by showing patience with your horse when showing him what to do, and letting him try and try again until he gets it. Allow your mind to become clear of stresses and strain before you start a training session. Take a deep breath and relax. It is part of the natural learning process for your horse to test the waters. He needs to check and see if what he thinks you want is correct. This can occur several times before the horse has confirmed his correct assessment of the task.

Persistence. Don’t simply give up when things don’t happen quickly. At first it is hard to communicate. You will both need to learn how to speak the same language! Stay with it and be consistent in your cues. Horses are very perceptive to even the slightest cue. Your horse will only cooperate when he has learned what the cue means.

Positive reinforcement. Whenever your horse does something correctly, show him a signal. The best reward for a horse may not be those tasty treats. They love to be released when they’ve done their job. Imagine the “whoa!” or “stop” cue. This is a pull on the bit within his mouth. When the horse exhibits the signs that he understands that you want him to stop, release the bit immediately. That tells him he’s doing the right thing.

Horses need to know their limits. How close can he stand to you before you feel crowded? Can he pull on the lead rope if he doesn’t want to go the way you are leading him? If he doesn’t feel inclined to pick up his foot, will you allow him to get away with this? For a horse this is not natural, even though to us it may seem like common sense. A correctly and carefully trained horse will forever be both a most pleasing companion and could also represent a lower liability when it comes to renewing your horse insurance policy.

Colic is the most commonly occuring serious horse illness, affecting at least 1 in 10 horses each year. It is the single biggest cause of premature horse death and also the most frequent source of major veterinary bills. In addition, it can cause other serious illnesses, such as laminitis or founder.

Colic is not a single illness but rather a group of related illnesses affecting the digestive system. As such, there are many different types of horse colic and various different causes. Extensive research, covering thousands of case studies, has identified the main causes of the various types of colic. Following is a list of horse care actions to avoid the primary causes of colic and thereby greatly reduce the risk of your horse developing colic.

1) Frequent Feedings. Horses have evolved to graze throughout the day. The more frequently they eat, the healthier their digestive system.

2) High-Volume Foods. Horses have evolved on high-volume and high-fiber foods such as grass. Although one can feed energy-dense foods such as grain or musli, they should not be the main component of the horse’s diet. When feeding both hay and grain, the hay should be first and then the grain, as this results in better digestion and reduced bolting of food.

3) Soak Pelleted Food. Unsoaked pellets (e.g. hay pellets) are more likely to be bolted and more likely to cause choke than soaked pellets. More relevantly, unsoaked pellets expand when they come into contact with stomach liquids and can thereby result in bloat and subsequently colic.

4) Lock Feedroom Door. Horses which get into a feedroom can stuff themselves, especially on grain, which can result in colic (it can also cause laminitis). A lock or horse-proof latch is adviseable.

5) Correct Bolting. A horse which bolts (swallows without chewing) its food is more prone to colic, as well as other illnesses (e.g. ulcers, choke). This may be due to medical problems (e.g. dental) or simply a bad habit. Explore possible corrective actions with your vet.

6) Sand and Dirt. Make sure that your horse does not ingest sand or dirt, as this can result in impaction colic. Do not feed them on top of sandy or dirt surfaces. Avoid over-grazed pastures.

7) Water. A horse which does not drink enough is prone to colic. Likewise, a horse that has not had access to water and then suddenly drinks a very large quantity. Ensure that your horse has access to water throughout the day. During winter, water should be warmed, as most horses will greatly reduce their water intake if it is too cold. After exercising a horse, allow it to drink but limit the quantity until it has cooled down.

De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.

9) Exercise. Horses which are regularly exercised or that have natural exercise through pasture access are less likely to have colic. When starting an exercise regime or sport, changes should be made gradually as a rapid increase in the amount or intensity of exercise may cause colic.

10) Bedding. Horses will often eat straw bedding. If your horse eats excessive amounts of bedding, especially indigestable bedding types (e.g. wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they will not eat.

11) Temperature. A horse that becomes chilled is likely to develop colic. This is particularly true if there is a sudden drop in temperature. If a horse is likely to be chilled (e.g. old, weak, sick, shaved, short coat, unaccustomed to cold) then they need to be protected during extreme weather. The use of a rug should be considered. During extremely cold weather, especially if wet and windy, it may be adviseable to confine weaker horses to their stables.

The Morgan horse is a truly competent breed, which performs well across many disciplines across the equestrian world. The Morgan is know to be one of the first breeds of horse developed in the United States, and its ancestry can be traced back to the very first stallion called Figure (who then went on to become known as Justin Morgan after its owner).

Figure – Justin Morgan
Figure, the sire from which all Morgans can be traced back to, was born in 1789, in Massachusetts. He is believed to have stood just short of horse height, around 14 hands, and was well known for his ability to pass down hereditary qualities such as his conformation, appearance and agility, making him a superb choice to start the breed. He lived to the age of 32, and during his life was renamed ‘Justin Morgan’ and so the breed is often heard being referred to as ‘The Justin Morgan Horse’.

Features of a Morgan Horse
Every Morgan comes from one breed standard, irrelative of bloodline etc. They are of a refined build, with good strength in the legs, a stocky yet compact body, a noticeably arched neckline and set back shoulders. They are very expressive in character, which is exaggerated by them having large eyes.

Morgan horse height varies, but normally ranges from around 14.1 hands to 15.2 hands though there are some examples which stray either side of these limits. Though they are technically regarded as being horses, if a Morgan horse is under 14.2hh it can be classed, and entered as a Pony in equestrian shows and competitions.

Morgan horses can be bred in many different colours, though the usual colour is either black, bay or chestnut.

About Morgans Today
The Morgan horse is a noticeably versatile breed and they regularly compete in many different disciplines across the equestrian sphere, including eventing, dressage and showjumping. Such is their popularity, they also have there own show circuit, as well as a National Morgan Horse competition.

If you are looking for the right horse rugs for your horse, there are some things to consider before you make the purchase. This is a lasting investment and there is a wide variety of types of horse rugs to choose from. Show Sheets In fact, most horse owners find the need for more than one type of horse rug for their horse.

The size of your horse is an important consideration in your purchase. Before you shop for the perfect horse rug for your horse be sure to take the horse’s measurements. Otherwise, there is a risk of the horse rug being too large and the horse getting its legs caught up in it. treeless saddles

You will need to take some twine or rope and wrap it around the horse’s mid section in order to get a proper measurement. Then measure the twine and place it against a tape measure to find the right size in width. You also need to measure your horse from the mane to the tail for the length.

Another consideration when shopping for a horse rug is the type of climate you live in. In the winter you will want to have a heavy weight horse rug while the fall and spring will warrant a light weight horse rug for your horse. Investing in a summer cooler horse rug is a good idea to protect your horse from heat, flies and other insects.

For show horses you can find a dressage horse rug that is colorful and ornate. There is a variety of design and material options so you are sure to find one perfect for you and your horse.

There are stable horse rugs available for horses that spend a considerable time in the stables. Stable rugs are made from varying materials; anything from fleece to fancy duvets. western saddles The purpose is to keep the horse warm and comfortable.

When you invest in a horse rug, it doesn’t matter what type, the manufacturer’s care instructions should always be followed.

When wanting to train a horse you first need to catch it. Although this may sound simple, it can be surprisingly frustrating when you attempt this for the first time. This is the most important step in horse training. The foundations of trust are laid in this step. It is important to remember the three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – at every stage during the process of training your horse. These three elements work together to help you with each step of horse training.

The most efficient way to begin the approach is to have the horse in an enclosure of easily manageable size. A round pen is the best type of enclosure to use, but you can use any large fenced area or paddock if you don’t have one.

You should start by casually approaching the enclosure. Do your very best to relax and give the impression of calm. Leave your life’s stress outside the pen. Since horses are prey animals, they are easily intimidated by anyone or anything that emits stress or aggression of any kind. You wouldn’t want your horse to see you as a possible threat, which is how he will interpret those emotions. Trust needs to be built between you and the horse.

Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. This will happen in good time. For the time being the priority is familiarisation – you with the horse and more importantly, the horse with you. Walk inside and just stand around for a couple of minutes. Don’t look at the horse directly. Predators eyeball their prey and stare into their eyes to intimidate them. Your horse must not see you as a predator. The horse needs to see you as part of the herd.

Take in a rake or a shovel next time and tidy up a bit. Do some basic maintenance checks on the fence panels. The horse should not be approached yet. Wait for the horse to approach and investigate your actions. A horse is a naturally curious creature. When the horse realises it’s you again, he will come to check you out with a good sniff.

If the horse is unfamiliar with human contact this step can take some time. For some horses shyness is not a problem, and they will approach you the minute you enter the enclosure. Both ways are acceptable. However long it takes for the horse to become accustomed to you, it is important for trust that you let him get there in his own time. Patience!

Don’t see this as an opportunity to grab the horse. The most important thing to remember here is patience. To build this foundation for training and for a lasting relationship takes time. It is important not to rush this step.

When the horse at last approaches you, turn your back and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. You will show the horse that you are the one in charge by walking away first.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each others presence. Remember to use a slow, relaxed manner to walk towards the horse. A skittish equine can be approached more easily from the side. Without staring at the horse, move towards the side. Move closer to your new friend whilst glancing sideways. Do not ever attempt to fit the halter by sneaking up on your horse. How will you hold onto the horse when “caught” if the horse is frightened? Trust will be broken in this manner and you will be back to square one. And of course you could be hurt. The emphasis here is on patience and persistence.

On being allowed to get close to the horse, ensure that you use plenty of positive reinforcement. The first moments you spend together should have nothing to do with work. This step is about bonding. Stroking your horse along his neck area, grooming your horse, and talking to him softly are all methods of positive reinforcement. The horse should see this as enjoyable interaction. Now is the time you are both ready for training.

A word on safety:
Never approach a horse from behind unless you are very familiar and the horse knows you. A swift kick can be registered before you can even think about moving out of a horse’s way. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Always approach where you can be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurancein place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses, while very beautiful animals, are strong and powerful with the capability of delivering an incredibly debilitating kick. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

Have you double up your bank? If yes, now is the time to double your ventures. Get pleasure from horse betting. Play smart! People waste money, not because they are short of intuition but because they don’t succeed to work out the logic and the mathematics that control a good horse betting system.

The only way to get around a bookie is to beat the sense the similar logic, he uses himself. Counter to false impression, you do not necessitate luck or exclusive information to make sizeable money due to horse race betting.

No Guarantees

Despite what system you use, you are going to be defeated once in a while. Prior to we move any further, you need to be comprehensible about the information that no betting system is 100% definite.

Starting Bank

You need to join with the plan or you will finish off knocking your entire bank account before you know it.  You are going to necessitate a starting bank to protect for all your loosing bets. No necessity to be wasteful! We recommend you begin with a bank of somewhere nearly £250.

Mechanism

This betting system is derived from the reality that almost 40% of most horse races are won by the most wanted. This signifies that of you bet on 10 races a day, you are confident to win at least 4 of them. For each race you necessitate to bet only 2% of your bank on the most wanted. Therefore, if you stake £5 you will win back £10 with the original amount. Be confident to ensure the probability. You should put a bet on the preferred only when the likelihood are close to 11/8 or more than that. For unknown chances, divide up the first figure by the second (the result is 1.38). Anything less than 1.38 should not be touched!

If you’ve won on a actual day, quit betting, otherwise bet again. Use the sequence 1-1-2-4-8-16 to bet. In proportion to this you will necessitate to bet £5X1 on the next race, £5X2 on the next and so on for at least 5 to 6 races. Why only 2% of the total principle? This way, even with subsequent losses, you are highly doubtful to run out of funds money.

You require to consider that if your opening bank accounts goes above over £250, you require to keep betting only 2% of the initial amount and not 2% of the final available balance remainder. We sincerely question that you will need to do that. You can’t go on betting 6 times a day on a most wanted without considering a solo win.

Make use of it to substantially enhance the number of wins and reduce on your failure.