Surviving a recession is never easy, but when you have ponies and horses which completely rely on you for nurishment, shelter and medical attention, every small amount saved helps.

It’s tremendously sad that too many horses and ponies are given up every week, as owners struggle financially with the economy as it is, because of this there are currently many horses for sale.

Sara Tuppen from the Horse Refuge in Wittersham Kent, knows all about looking after horses when money is scarce, having to rely purely on donations to keep over 40 rescued horses in good health. She believes there are many ways which could help make owning a horse during a recession a little easier:

1. A lot of horses can live quite happily outside for most of the year, as long as there’s nurishment, water and a place to shelter available. If this is an acceptable option for your horse, it could reduce the cost of stabling considerably.

2. Removing shoes is an easy way to reduce outlay. If not ridden regularly, and not ridden on rough surfaces, many horses will be happy without shoes.

3. Sharing your horse is a great way to severely reduce costs, and helps to provide a cheaper introduction to horse ownership for someone else.

4. Quite often it is possible to receive free stabling and occasionally hay and bedding in return for helping out around the yard. Mucking out, grooming the horses, yard and paddock maintenance etc. are all ways which could save you money for a little hard work!

5. Visits to the vets are an unknown quantity but still have to be allowed for. If money’s a little tight, you may sometimes discover a lot of Vets will allow you to spread the cost.

6. Many people can make lifestyle changes! It’s not just finding ways to keep your horse for less, see if you can do it for yourself!

7. Wherever possible, horse owners can often join forces to purchase feed and straw in bigger numbers, reducing the entire cost and passing on savings to all.

8. As a last resort, you can look into getting your horse a foster home, even as a family friend.

If you’re in a position to share, or even buy a horse or pony, there are still many horses for sale and ponies for sale available.

The needs of horses leads to equipment for grooming all the way to food supplements. But, there is an elemental horse supply that you should not leave your shelter, or your saddlebag without and that’s your horse first aid kit.

Having a horse first aid pack could be actually save your horse’s life. You should understand from experience that it doesn’t matter how well planned an expedition might be, there are just some things that go awry. It’s not just paranoia, it is being prepared. Prior preparation may well help prevent your ride from becoming into a serious situation.

The first aid kit should be kept in a container or bag that can stop water and muck out because these further the progression of bacteria. You would run the risk of exacerbating the infection if you were to use contaminated dressings. Places that sell horse supplies hold things such as a plastic zipper bag. Aside from keeping tools, or grooming gear, these are also useful for holding first aid objects. Supermarkets sell plastic food containers in a number of sizes. Apart from keeping possible contaminants out, you could also select one that could fit in your saddlebag.

Among the items that you should incorporate in your horse first aid kit, a sterilizer almost certainly is the most helpful in most injuries. From minor grazes and abrasions to injuries, disinfectants are crucial cleansers. Just follow the manufacturers’ advice especially when using industrial grades as excessive use could dry your horse’s skin. Sterile scrubs and wipes become useful for disinfecting cuts in the nonexistence of water. These are excellent substitutes for disinfectants since they clean cuts with equal efficiency, but without the need for water.

Creams or injury powders are also worthwhile additions to your gear. They can stop the entry of fresh bacteria inside the injury and hurry up the healing procedure. However, make sure to use ointments, powders, and creams that have been approved by your equine vet.

A fly spray applied or sprayed on the injury reduces the chance of additional infection or contamination risks considerably. Wound coverings come in sterile individual packs and they are useful for covering wounds and promoting healing. There should be a stock of bandages in your kit, or at the very least two with a broad span. They are excellent for stabilizing fractures, splints, and securing pads over lacerations. With regards to bleeding, cotton wool and gauze are crucial for slowing excess bleeding. Salts are useful for soaking unhealthy hooves and feet.

Aside from these medications, there are various supplies which you can obtain from equine shops and conventional pharmacies. Petroleum jellies are beneficial for rubbing, secondary burns, and skin irritations.

A thermometer is an investment to add to your horse equipment. Skilled riders advise to keep your thermometers attached to your horses tail to avoid loss. Scissors, tweezers, and forceps are tools you shouldn’t disregard in your equine forst aid pack. Aside from cutting bandages, they are also handy for removing splinters and stones caught in horses’ hooves.

Lastly, keep in mind these first aid packs are just for giving your horse initial assistance in emergencies before the vet arrives. These are just for precautionary measures, it is still essential to call a vet after providing first aid.

For more horse information and horses for sale, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory

Horse training requires a firm basis on the ground before you can move onto saddle training; here are a few basic exercises outlined which can be used when training your own horse or someone else’s. It is important to get these exercises right first, as this is how you and the horse will become familiar with each other and build a trusting relationship. It is the groundwork that will pave the way for future training. It is important for your safety that your new ton-sized friend is taught to respect your personal space bubble.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These three P’s can be applied to all current and future levels of horse training.

1. Groom your horse. This is the perfect first exercise for you and your horse. You’ll get to know each other. Stand beside him and brush his neck and back. A horse will often turn to give you a little love bit at this time. Horses do this to each other, but may not do it to humans. You can discourage this easily enough by the wave of a hand or by pushing his head back to the straight position. Those teeth are HUGE so you must make it clear from the beginning that this is unacceptable. Use patience and keep calm. The horse will understand and cooperate before too long. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse. Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Take a step and walk slowly forward. He should remain at your right side and never try to go ahead of you. If he tries to go ahead just walk around him to your left in a circle. Do this as many times as necessary. Show persistence. Use the circular movement to stay just ahead of him, where you should be. Should your horse not want to walk with you then stand slightly behind him, at his shoulder, facing the same direction. While holding the rope close to his chin, push forward gently. Give praise and positive reinforcement when he takes a small step. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. Never wrap the lead rope around any part of yourself – this is for your own safety. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.This is a great exercise used by most horse trainers and owners. Many of the skills, commands and cues that your horse will require for saddle work can be taught by performing lunging exercises.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. The lungeing rope will be much longer than the lead rope at about thirty feet long. Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Face your horse’s left side to begin, whilst holding the lunge rope. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along. Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Let the line out and follow the horse just behind and to the left side and make a kissing sound. Soon that sound will come to mean “move forward” to your horse. As you’re turning and the horse moves in a circle around you, hold the whip slightly behind his hindquarters. The whip is not for hitting. You only need to wave it just a little to get his attention.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

The “whoa” command can be taught at this stage. In a low, calm voice, say the word “whoooaa”. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. Be sure to give him a neck rub with lots of praise when he stops. Your horse needs this positive reinforcement if he is to remember what he needs to do.

You can now change position so that you are lunging your horse anti-clockwise. This is done simply by swapping the lead over to be clipped onto the right of the halter, and holding the lunge whip in your left hand.

These exercises are simple ways to get you started when traiing your horse. Bear in mind that a horse is a huge and powerful creature. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

Saddle training is the ultimate goal for riding, but the groundwork must be laid first. You will first need to lead your horse from the trailer, for example, to the tack area in order to tack-up and then ride. Not much point in teaching your horse point B, the saddle riding part, if there’s no way to get there from point A is there?. When your horse learns to cooperate with you, you can act as a team. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. Then you’ll need to lead your horse about with a halter and a lead rope.

The primary objective in teaching a horse acceptable behaviour is safety for both of you. He will need to be taught that his natural tendency to pull against the lead rope, for example, is not allowed. Your horse should also know that he must not invade the personal space of the human leader on the other end of the rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

Leading your horse requires that you use the three Ps of horse training: patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Having already accomplished haltering, it is likely that you have already discovered the effectiveness of the three Ps.

Beginning lead training when the horse is still a foal is the easiest plan. Although you won’t need to cover saddles and riding with a very young horse, it’s important to get an early start when teaching basic ground manners. The young horse will need to cooperate for farrier and vet visits, as well as for the various people moving about the yard, stables or paddock.

If you’re lucky enough to have the dam on site, the foal will copy the behaviours of the dam. Don’t worry if the dam is not present, as it works as well with any horse which the foal spends time with. A young horse will naturally learn from his elders. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They learn by watching the others. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. Horses notice everything that goes on around them – particularly if it involves other horses within the herd – so you can be sure that your student will be paying attention.

Begin by leading a more experienced horse or dam along with your young student horse, walking side by side with you in the middle leading both at once. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

If you have a calm horse which you think the foal will follow you could also use the pony method. Using a longer lead rope and simply tow the young trainee behind the more experienced horse. Since it’s natural for the young to follow the elders behaviours, this is actually a quite natural method for teaching the lead.

If you don’t have the luxury of having other horses close by from which your student can learn, you will need to rely heavily on your skills of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. You will get there in the end but it will probably take a bit longer for the horse to understand what is required.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

After you have him walking with you in straight lines with success, try turning slightly to the left, maintaining the space bubble between you. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. Reward him each time he takes a step in the right direction by releasing the pressure on the lead rope.

Lead training can be a testing time. Stay with it and you will see great improvement. To get yourself closer to the day you can saddle up for a ride, you’ll need to put in the work; little and often (every day if possible) works best and will soon give you great results.

Would you trust your children to someone else while you traveled all the way across the country? Your horse is part of your family too, so why would you be less careful with them? Purchasing a horse lorry allows you to travel with your horse, giving you that same peace of mind.

Hiring someone to transport your horse means putting their future in the hands of someone you barely know. Hired horse lorry drivers may know horses, but they don’t know this horse the way you do. No one is going totake care of them the way that you will, and more importantly, no one is going to know how to handle them in case of an emergency the way you do.

One of the most established Horsebox manufacturers in the UK is Empire Horseboxes Ltd. They maintain and construct new Horseboxes, can convert old horseboxes and have a large range of refurbished used horseboxes. Take a look at Horseboxes for Sale now.

There are hundreds of things that could happen to your horse while they’re being transported when you’re not with them. What would you do if your horse was injured in the hired horse lorry? Would a hired driver be able to calm them and administer the proper emergency treatment? Would you be comfortable letting someone else put your horse down if they couldn’t be helped?

Of course not. Anyone who loves their horse would need to be there. That’s the reason many horse owners choose to invest in their own horse lorry.

For a good selection of New and Used Luxury Horse Boxes in the UK please visit Horseboxes for Sale now.

Buying a good horse lorry isn’t as difficult, or as incompatible with your budget, as most people believe. You’re not limited in the number of dealers that carry well known brand names like Equitrek. There are also a number of dealers that specialize in selling high quality pre-owned lorries to horse owners who want the best for their horse but can’t afford the expense of a new one.

The lorry should be large enough to allow him to brace his legs and swing his neck to keep from being knocked into the walls. It should not, however, allow them to spin around or slam his hooves into the door with force. If he manages to kick down the door or wrap himself in his tether you could have a problem.

Horses are designed to run in the wild, not ride around in a horse lorry. A properly ventilated horse lorry is vital if you want your horse to arrive at their destination in fit, fighting form (metaphorically speaking). It would be prudent to choose one with padding on the walls to brace their stumble if you brake suddenly or go off the pavement.Horses aren’t as lucky as barn cats; a high speed impact into the sides of the lorry would leave them with bumps and bruises for quite a while.Most horses don’t enjoy being put in a tight and enclosed area to travel. Any lorry you choose needs to be well ventilated if you want your horse to arrive in peak condition. It’s a good idea to find one with padded sides, in case they stumble.Your average barn cat would probably fare just fine after bouncing off the walls of the lorry, but your much heavier horse wouldn’t be nearly as lucky.

Horses are some of the best traveling companions you could hope for. Purchasing your own horse lorry allows you to enjoy your horse’s companionship while you’re out on the road.

This very brief article gives you a very quick overview into how to transport your Horses with their comfort in mind. Click on the link to view a large range of Horse Lorries For Sale in the UK and Europe from Empire Horseboxes Ltd.

A horse with colic is a situation that worries any horse lover. So what exactly is colic in horses? What signs should you keep an eye out for?

Colic in horses refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Generally horses will not handle abdominal pain very well. So in the event of any disturbance of gut functioning they will usually display signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and hoofing the ground. If the pain is greater the horse will stand up and lie down, and try rolling to get more comfortable.

The horse will start to sweat. In more severe cases it will get up and down and roll constantly.

What Should You Do?
Should you believe your horse is suffering from colic, you should call an equine vet immediately. The vet will be in a position to supply rapid pain relief and make a decision whether additional action is appropriate.

What should you do while you wait for the vet to arrive? Leading your horse for a walk sometimes helps. It may encourage his guts to work normally and surpress any pain. It could also prevent your horse lying down to roll. If he is lying on the floor quietly then you should let him stay lying down.

It was thought that horses could cause a twisted gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably not true. Though it is best to prevent him rolling around if you can. That way you can prevent your horse harming himself by banging itself on the stable walls. Of course take care that you don’t get injured yourself. Horses often lose all their manners if in pain.

There are several differing reasons as to why horses get colic. But often the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

What will the vet do to look into the issue? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope which will show them whether there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate provides a good idea of the seriousness of the discomfort and the seriousness of the problem. Usually a horse with a regular heart rate does not have a sever problem. However higher heart rates are not such a promising sign.

A really useful area of the examination is the examination of the rectum. By physically feeling the gut, the vet may be able to find the cause of the problem. Of course this is a highly skilled procedure, that is potentially dangerous for both parties. But for an experienced equine vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the nature of the issue. It may reveal an obstruction, or a swollen gut loop as a result of a twist or other intestinal issue.

It’s likely that in all but the simple cases the vet may inset a tube through the nose into the stomach. This may sound unpleasant but often may make your horse comfortable by releasing the built up pressure from the stomach. This process can also give the vet detailed feedback as to whether the stomach is emptying correctly.

On occasion the horse is in so much pain that it is impossible for the vet to examine him fully without first applying a dose of pain killer.

Only by collecting all of the information provided by a detailed examination is the vet able to make a tentative diagnosis. Even then it may not be possible to tell exactly what is going on.

Sometimes, after the first inspection, the horse needs surgery. Though more usually the vet will choose to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and review his condition after a couple of hours. Most examples show a quick improvement. But others will show no response to the treatment, or they will respond initially, then start displaying signs of discomfort again later.

Rather than having to bring the vet out multiple times, it is usually better to move these cases to a specialist equine practice so they can be monitored closely and surgery can be performed if necessary.

Conclusion
Fortunately the vast majority of cases respond quickly to medical treatment. However if surgery is necessary – it is vital to operate as soon as possible. The chance of a successful outcome is far greater if the operation is performed before too much damage has occurred.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Below is a brief description of just three simple groundwork exercises you can perform with your own horse or a horse you are training. Ground exercises are a vital part of getting to know each other and of building trust between you and the horse. Good groundwork sets the stage for all future training. The importance of safety and maintaining your personal space bubble should not be taken lightly.

Successful horse training requires patience, persistence and lots of positive reinforcement. These are the 3 P’s of basic horse training that will serve you well no matter what level you are training or what you might be training for in the future.

1. Groom your horse.

This is a perfect place to start before practising more advanced exercises with your horse. Your horse will get to know you during this quality time together, and vice verse. Standing beside your horse, brush his back and neck. It is not unusual for the horse to bring his teeth around to you for a little love bite. While horses do this to each other all the time, naturally they cannot do it to humans. Discourage this by simply waving a hand, or by pushing his head back straight. Those massive teeth could really hurt – so be sure to make it clear from the very start that this is not acceptable. Use patience and keep calm. He’ll get the idea and will cooperate. It will do you no good to panic, stress, smack your horse or get otherwise agitated. This will only set you back with your trust levels.

2. Lead your horse.

Walk on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope just below his chin in your right hand. Step forward and walk slowly. He should not try to go ahead of you but should remain at your right side. He may try to do this and you should walk around in a circle to your left. Do this as many times as necessary. Be persistent. By circling to your left you will stay just ahead of him as it should be. If, on the other hand, your horse doesn’t want to walk with you, stand slightly behind at his shoulder facing the same direction. Hold the rope close to his chin and push forward. When he takes a little step, praise and positive reinforcement is in order. When he starts to walk willingly, take your place slightly ahead of him and walk on. For your safety, never wrap the lead rope around any part of you. If the horse decides to bolt you’ll be going along and it will not be pretty.

3. Lunge your horse.

This is a fantastic exercise which the vast majority of horse owners and certainly all horse trainers will use to teach their horse about what is expected. Lunging will teach many of the skills and commands, or cues, your horse will need to know when you’re ready to work him under saddle.

In a large open area (an arena works, too, if you don’t have a round enclosure) clip your horse to a lunge lead specifically for lunging. This will be 30 ft long (approximately 10m), much longer than the short lead rope you use for the lead exercise.

Clip the lead to the horse’s left halter side and hold the lead in your left hand. Start by facing the horse’s left side while holding the lunge line. Hold a lunge whip in your right hand which you’ll use to guide him along.

Now step to your right sideways toward the rear of the horse while holding the whip out behind him. The horse’s natural reaction will be to step forward. Now let out the rope as you follow behind the horse to the left side, making a kissing sound as you do so. He’ll begin to associate that sound with “move forward”. Just hold the whip slightly behind the horse’s hindquarters as you are turning and the horse is moving in a circle around you. The whip is not for hitting. Simply by waving it about a little the horse should pay attention to you.

Now, as he moves forward, you should move yourself slowly backwards, so that you come to the centre of your training circle. Stand in the middle and turn in a circle with the lunge line fully extended and the horse walking around you in a good circle. Watch your horse’s hip area as he’s going round.

This is the perfect time to teach your horse to understand “whoa”. Say the word “whoooaaa” in a low and calm voice. At the same time, step toward your horse’s head and repeat the word. When he stops, give him lots of praise and a little neck rub. You will help him remember what to do through this positive reinforcement.

Changing your position now will allow you to lunge your horse in an anti-clockwise manner. It’s done in the same way, but with the lead clipped to the right side of the halter and the lunge whip in the left hand.

These are just a few basic exercises for you to get started with hands-on horse training. Always remember the size and sheer power of the horse. This alone should be enough to remind you to have adequate horse insurance in place should either you or your equine be injured. Your success with training and all future activities depends both on safety and trust. As well as a loyal friend, your horse is also an investment, so remember to protect that investment against theft, accident or misadventure by making sure you compare horse insurance policies to ensure you are getting the best level of cover for both of your needs.

When it’s just you and your horse travelling the countryside, you’re looking for a twofold deal when you’re searching for horseboxes for sale. You need a horsebox that’s just right for your horse and still fits your budget. Learn how you can locate great deals, when you’re looking for horseboxes both on and off the web.

The most important thing when you’re shopping horseboxes for sale isn’t the price. You want to make sure the quality of the horsebox is going to offer your horse a smooth, safe ride. The best way to find a quality horsebox is to buy from the right dealer.

One of the most established Horsebox builders in the UK is Empire Horseboxes Ltd. They maintain and construct new Horseboxes, can convert old horseboxes and have an impressive range of reconditioned used horseboxes. Check out Horse Lorries For Sale now.

The best place to look for horseboxes for sale is a seller who works with horses themselves. When you’re shopping on the web, it’s especially important to choose carefully when you’re picking your provider. A seller experienced with all aspects of horse care is in the best position to give you recommendations when it comes to your horsebox.

An experienced horseman is less likely to provide poor quality equipment and therefore provides a certain level of comfort to your purchase decision. You don’t have to know anything about horseboxes to sell horseboxes online. A good dealer should know the ins and outs of traveling with horses along with the finer details of choosing horseboxes.

It can be hard to resist the temptation to make a decision between horseboxes for sale purely based on price. The cost of choosing an inexpensive but poor quality horsebox can rise rapidly over the long run. Paying for a high quality model up front is much more cost effective than trying to compensate for the long term consequences.

For a good selection of New and Used Luxury Horse Boxes in the UK please visit Horseboxes for Sale now.

When you’ve found a high quality model it’s time to start considering price when you’re comparing horseboxes for sale. The best way to get a great deal on horseboxes is to shop around. There are different prices and specials offered by different dealers at different times. Five or six different companies can offer five or six different pricing options to help you save hundreds of pounds on your horsebox.

When comparing horseboxes for sale, it’s important to consider their width and length carefully. A smaller horsebox can be a better choice than a large one. A large horsebox is more expensive and gives your horse more room to move around. Horses aren’t bred to be travelers, and they don’t enjoy traveling in motor vehicles the way dogs do. Less confinement can allow them to panic during transport and cause themselves harm.

If you’re concerned about your budget, consider shopping for a used horsebox rather than a new one. A majority of sellers offering horseboxes for sale offer pre-owned horseboxes as well. A pre-owned horsebox in good condition will provide a perfectly safe traveling environment for your horse.

Keeping your horse safe while you’re traveling requires a safe place for him to travel. With a little bit of careful hunting through horseboxes for sale you should be in an excellent position to give your horse the high quality, cost efficient traveling quarters he deserves.

This short article gives you a very quick overview into how to transport your Horses or Ponies with their comfort in mind. Click on the link to view a large range of Horse Lorries For Sale in the UK and Europe from Empire Horseboxes Ltd.

When you are deciding on horse riding equipment for the 1st time you will almost certainly wish to stick to the basics. Buying only what you need when you are starting is a good idea as you’ll soon learn what is essential as your interest for the sport develops Nonetheless getting poor supplies may stop you from learning to ride properly so always purchase the best horse riding supplies.

Helmets

Helmets are essential horse riding safety equipment. The proper kind of helmet will keep you protected in the event of a fall. In no way skimp on your helmet or get something second- hand, always buy the best. Take an individual more experienced along if you are uncertain about choosing a helmet that fits you correctly.

Boots

Besides your helmet the type of boots that you select is likely the most important part of your horse riding gear. You want boots that fit you comfortably and also look great. The kind of horse riding boots that you pick depends largely on what type of riding that you might be doing. Should you be only into riding for fun then a low cut boot could be the best to buy for your horse riding gear. To make taking your boots off easier I prefer a boot that has a back zipper. Your boot ought to be a snug fit but at the same time it should also be comfortable.

If you are intending to ride in shows thenyou’ll need tall boots. This piece of horse ridingsupplies not only looks great it also helps tokeep your leg position nice and stable. You might find that these are probablythe most comfortable type of boots to have.

Glasses

Despite the fact that glasses might not seem like the 1st thing you need to think about when getting horse riding gear, the proper type of eyewear is crucial. It is advisable to ensure that you can see correctly while riding. Many people opt for contacts if they normally wear glasses. This is specially true for cold months riding as glasses usually fog up quite a bit while in the cold air.

Yet should you opt for to use glasses then safety glass in your frames are a good choice as part of your horse riding equipment. This can avoid terrible accidents that can come about if your glasses should break. Sunglasses are also something you should ponder when riding in the summer as the glare you may encounter can be very distracting.

Please stop by Dressage Saddles for Sale for much further details about horse gear at http://dressagesaddlesforsale.com, thank you.

Morgan horses are a truly versatile breed, which performs well across many equestrian disciplines. The Morgan is regarded as one of the first breeds of horse developed in the United States, and its origins can be traced back to the original stallion named Figure (a horse who then went on to be called Justin Morgan after its owner).

Figure – Justin Morgan
Figure, the sire that all Morgan horses can be traced back to, was born in 1789, in Massachusetts. It is thought he stood just at pony height, roughly 14hh, and was well known for his ability to pass down hereditary qualities including his conformation, presence and agility, making him a superb choice to start the breed. He lived to the age of 32, and during his life changed his name to ‘Justin Morgan’ which is why the breed is frequently called ‘The Justin Morgan Horse’.

Features of a Morgan Horse
All Morgan horses come from a single breed standard, regardless of bloodline etc. They are of a refined build, with good strength in the legs, a stocky yet compact body, a neckline which is noticeably arched and set back shoulders. They are very expressive in character, which is exaggerated by large eyes.

Height in Morgan horses can vary, but usually ranges from roughly 14.1hh up to 15.2hh though there are some examples which are above and below these limits. Though they are technically regarded as being horses, if a Morgan horse is under 14.2hh it can be classed, and entered as a Pony in equestrian shows and competitions.

Morgan horses can be bred in a variety of different colourings, though they are usually to be found in black, chestnut and bay.

Morgan Horses Today
The Morgan horse is a noticeably versatile breed and they often compete in various disciplines across the equestrian sphere, including eventing, dressage and showjumping. They are so popular, they also have there own show circuit, including a National Morgan Horse competition.